A Study on Kinematics Characteristics of Freak Wavt

Based on the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory, the speed of freak waves is formulated in terms of the period and the wave height. Finite modified wave steepness gives rise to a significant enhancement of the nonlinear contributions to the freak wave speed in comparison with the 3rd-order Stokes wave the...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:中国海洋工程：英文版 2013, Vol.27 (3), p.391-402
Main Author: 崔成 张宁川 左书华 房卓
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Stokes波
垂直加速度
水平速度
畸形波
英雄
运动学特征
速度比
重力加速度
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Summary:Based on the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory, the speed of freak waves is formulated in terms of the period and the wave height. Finite modified wave steepness gives rise to a significant enhancement of the nonlinear contributions to the freak wave speed in comparison with the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory. For a fix modified wave steepness, the estimated amplification of the nonlinear contributions due to the deviation from the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory is 0.22-0.99. In addition, the velocity and acceleration fields are also documented in detail. In the present simulation, the horizontal velocities are smaller than the wave speed, and the freak wave exhibits a maximal horizontal velocity up to 37% of the wave speed and a maximal vertical acceleration up to about 20% of the gravitational acceleration.
ISSN:0890-5487
2191-8945