Viability of fruit seed oil O/W emulsions in personal care products

• Published in: Colloids and surfaces. A, Physicochemical and engineering aspects Physicochemical and engineering aspects, 2015-09, Vol.481, p.468-475
• Main Authors: Krasodomska, Olga, Jungnickel, Christian
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Apple seed oil; Blackcurrant seed oil; Cosmetic emulsion; Raspberry seed oil; Strawberry seed oil; Unsaturated fatty acid
• ISSN: 0927-7757; 1873-4359
• DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2015.06.022

[Display omitted] •Northern Europe fruit seed oils can be used as an alternative to exotic in cosmetic products.•They contain similar, if not more, valuable PUFAs.•We were able to create stable emulsions with positive sensory profiles. The use of fruit seed oils in personal care products is of significance to both their function and image. Poland is an important processor of fruit products within the EU, and thus has a large availability of seeds from domestic fruits, which are normally considered to be a waste material or feed for livestock. Unfortunately, current literature is scarce of the suitability of these oils for topical dermatological use in the form of cosmetic emulsion. Published data on these oils is generally limited to their use in the food industry. The aim of this paper is the determination of the viability of domestic fruit seeds, such as apple, blackberries, blackcurrants and strawberries as sources of unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs) in personal care products, such as oil-in-water emulsions. To that end the seed oils were tested for the fatty acids composition. Moreover, the seed oils were used as an additive in the oily phase components in O/W systems. The systems stability, rheological properties and the sensory analysis were tested in order to state their influence on system parameters and features. The best emulsion obtained during the formulation optimization process had the composition 4% and 5% of seed oil with an o:w phase ratio 20:80. The best stability had the emulsions with ratio polar:nonpolar lipid 60:40, respectively.