Perspectives on wave transformation over a near-horizontal shore platform: Comparison of a two-dimensional and transect approach

Understanding wave transformations over intertidal shore platforms is necessary for managing rock coasts. Previous studies have investigated the effects of intertidal shore platform morphologies on wave transformation using instruments aligned in cross-shore and longshore arrays. This approach has p...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Geomorphology (Amsterdam, Netherlands) Netherlands), 2022-05, Vol.405, p.108200, Article 108200
Main Authors: Krier-Mariani, Raphael L., Stephenson, Wayne J., Wakes, Sarah J., Dickson, Mark E.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Rock coast
Shore platform
Wave direction
Wave energy
Wave transformation
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Summary:Understanding wave transformations over intertidal shore platforms is necessary for managing rock coasts. Previous studies have investigated the effects of intertidal shore platform morphologies on wave transformation using instruments aligned in cross-shore and longshore arrays. This approach has provided a fundamental understanding of the influence of platform profile characteristics on wave transformation properties. However, it precludes the consideration of shore platform planform morphologies on two-dimensional wave transformation, which has been overlooked or only of secondary concern. We developed a two-dimensional approach to measure the wave direction of both swell waves (SW: 0.05 Hz 
ISSN:0169-555X
1872-695X
DOI:10.1016/j.geomorph.2022.108200