New Oils for Cosmetic O/W Emulsions: In Vitro/In Vivo Evaluation

The aim of this study was to design new cosmetic formulations containing oils from catolé, licuri and spent coffee grounds, and to evaluate their immediate and long-term effects on skin barrier function and skin hydration. Nonionic oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions were prepared and physicochemically cha...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Cosmetics (Basel) 2018-03, Vol.5 (1), p.6
Main Authors: Sousa, Giovana, De Souza Dantas, Isabelle, De Santana, Davi, Leal, Leila
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
catolé
Chorioallantoic membrane
Coffee
Coffee industry
cosmetic creams
Cosmetics
Epidermis
Fatty acids
Hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test
Humidity
Hydration
Irritation
licuri
Long-term effects
Oils & fats
Sensory evaluation
Skin
skin hydration
spent coffee grounds
Studies
Water content
Water loss
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Summary:The aim of this study was to design new cosmetic formulations containing oils from catolé, licuri and spent coffee grounds, and to evaluate their immediate and long-term effects on skin barrier function and skin hydration. Nonionic oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions were prepared and physicochemically characterized. The effects of the formulations were assessed by volunteers and by measuring the water content of the epidermis (WCE) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) both two hours and 20 days after daily application. The irritation potential was evaluated using three different methods: the Hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM); the observation of undesirable effects after skin formulation application, and by using the L*a*b* system to verify changes in skin coloring. The results obtained showed that the formulations containing 10% of these oils presented promising characteristics in the improvement of hydration and skin barrier function when compared to the baseline values and with the placebo cream. According to the sensory evaluation performed, all creams were found to have great acceptability.
ISSN:2079-9284
2079-9284
DOI:10.3390/cosmetics5010006