Hedonic Ratings and Physicochemical Stability of Antiaging Cream Formulas with Natural Active Ingredients of Nanophytosome from Combination of Merbau Wood-Gotu Kola Leaves Extracts and Essential Oils

• Main Authors: Wira Anggini, Awanda, Ayyuni Fariha, Tushliha, Kartika Sari, Rita, Rafi, Mohamad, Wientarsih, Ietje, Noviyanti Sutardi, Lina
• Format: Conference Proceeding
• Language: English
• Subjects: Cosmetics; Essential oils; Ingredients; Leaves; Low temperature; Nutmeg; Oils & fats; Room temperature; Stability; Storage temperature; Viscosity
• ISSN: 2117-4458; 2273-1709; 2117-4458
• DOI: 10.1051/bioconf/20237701004

Nanophytosome from the combination of Merbau wood ( Intsia sp .) and Gotu Kola leaves ( Centella asiatica ) extracts (NMG) have the potential as natural active ingredients of antiaging creams. This study aims to analyze the preference level of creams with the active ingredient of 4% NMG and the additions of essential oils and to test the physicochemical stability of the most preferred cream. The cream added the essential oil of nutmeg leaf, kaffir lime peel, and lime peel at consentration of 0%, 0.5%, 1%, and 1.5% (w/w). The preference level was measured by hedonic rating tests on the scent, texture, and viscosity by 30 non-standard panelists aged ≥25 years. The most preferred formula was tested for physicochemical stability by storage at low temperature (±4 °C), room temperature (±27 °C), and extreme temperature (±40 °C) for 21 days. The results showed that the most preferred formula was F9, which used 1% kaffir lime peel essential oil. The higher the temperature, the spreadability of the cream will increase; conversely, the higher the storage temperature, the lower the pH value, viscosity and stickiness of the cream, but it still meets the physicochemical standard of cosmetics cream. So this antiaging cream can be used for cosmetic applications.