Persulfated Ascorbic Acid Glycoside as a Safe and Stable Derivative of Ascorbic Acid for Skin Care Application

• Published in: Molecules (Basel, Switzerland) Switzerland), 2024-09, Vol.29 (19), p.4604
• Main Authors: Jesus, Ana, Correia-da-Silva, Marta, Confraria, Catarina, Silva, Sílvia, Brites, Gonçalo, Sebastião, Ana I, Carrascal, Mylène, Pinto, Madalena, Cidade, Honorina, Costa, Paulo, Cruz, Maria T, Sousa, Emília, Almeida, Isabel F
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Acids; Allergens; Allergies; Anti-Allergic Agents - chemistry; Anti-Allergic Agents - pharmacology; Antioxidants; Antioxidants - chemistry; Antioxidants - pharmacology; Aqueous solutions; Ascorbic Acid - analogs & derivatives; Ascorbic Acid - chemistry; Ascorbic Acid - pharmacology; ascorbic acid derivatives synthesis; Backup software; bioactivities; Cell Line; Comparative analysis; Cosmetics; Cosmetics - chemistry; Cosmetics - pharmacology; Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid; Glycosides - chemistry; Glycosides - pharmacology; Humans; Keratinocytes - drug effects; Mitochondria; NMR; Nuclear magnetic resonance; Oxidative stress; preformulation studies; safety profile; Skin; Skin Care - methods; Skin care products; Toiletries; Vitamin C
• ISSN: 1420-3049; 1420-3049
• DOI: 10.3390/molecules29194604

The pursuit of cosmetic ingredients with proven efficacy and safety that meet consumer needs drives the advancement of new products. Ascorbic acid (AA) is utilized in cosmetic products, predominantly for its potent antioxidant properties. Nonetheless, its instability compromises its efficacy. In this work, ascorbyl 2- -glucoside persulfate (AAGS) was synthesized, characterized, and evaluated regarding its safety profile and potential bioactivities and the results were compared to AA and its glycoside AAG. Pre-formulation studies were performed to assess the stability of the compounds and their compatibility with typical excipients commonly used in topical formulations. AAGS did not affect the metabolic activity of keratinocyte, macrophage, and monocyte cell lines, up to 500 µM. AAGS also exhibited a non-prooxidant and non-sensitizing profile and anti-allergic activity by impeding the allergen-induced maturation of THP-1 cells. When compared to AA and AAG, AAGS was shown to be more stable at pH values between 5 and 7, as well as superior thermostability and photostability. AAGS demonstrated higher stability in metal solutions of Fe(II) and Mg(II) than AA. AAGS demonstrated similar DPPH radical scavenging activity compared to AA. These results provide useful information for the development of new AA derivatives, highlighting AAGS as a novel cosmetic ingredient.