Ex Vivo and In Vivo Assessment of the Penetration of Topically Applied Anthocyanins Utilizing ATR-FTIR/PLS Regression Models and HPLC-PDA-MS

Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetr...

Full description

Saved in:
Bibliographic Details
Published in:Antioxidants 2020-06, Vol.9 (6), p.486
Main Authors: Westfall, Alexandra, Sigurdson, Gregory T., Rodriguez-Saona, Luis E., Giusti, M. Mónica
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Adhesives
Anthocyanins
Antioxidants
Biological activity
Chemical properties
Chromatography
color cosmetics
Cosmetics
delivery/vectorization/penetration
dermal delivery system
Flavonoids
Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy
Fourier transforms
High-performance liquid chromatography
Identification and classification
Lipophilic
Methods
Molecular weight
Regression analysis
Skin
skin barrier
Skin diseases
Solvents
spectroscopy
Spectrum analysis
Stratum corneum
Studies
Citations: Items that this one cites
Items that cite this one
Online Access:Get full text
Tags: Add Tag
No Tags, Be the first to tag this record!
Description
Summary:Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetration from lipophilic cosmetic formulations through the skin using a porcine ear model and human volunteers. ATR-FTIR/PLS regression and HPLC-PDA-MS were used to analyze anthocyanin permeation through the stratum corneum. Penetration of all anthocyanins was evident and correlated with molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Lower-molecular-weight (MW) anthocyanins from elderberry (449–581 Da) were more permeable within the skin in both ex vivo and in vivo models (Kp = 2.3–2.4 × 10−4 cm h−1) than the larger anthocyanins (933-1019 Da) from red radish (Kp = 2.0–2.1 × 10−4 cm h−1). Elderberry and red radish anthocyanins were found at all levels of the stratum corneum and at depths for activity as bioactive ingredients for skin health.
ISSN:2076-3921
2076-3921
DOI:10.3390/antiox9060486