Impact of Selected Cosmetic Ingredients on Common Microorganisms of Healthy Human Skin

Human skin is a complex ecosystem and is host to a large number of microorganisms. When the bacterial ecosystem is balanced and differentiated, skin remains healthy. However, the use of cosmetics can change this balance and promote the appearance of skin diseases. The skin’s microorganisms can utili...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Cosmetics (Basel) 2019-09, Vol.6 (3), p.45
Main Authors: Dobler, Dorota, Schmidts, Thomas, Wildenhain, Sören, Seewald, Ilona, Merzhäuser, Michael, Runkel, Frank
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Acne
Alcohols
Ammonium
Bacteria
Chromatography
Corynebacterium spp
Cosmetics
Dermatitis
Esters
Ethers
Fatty acids
Fungi
Ingredients
lipases
Lipids
Malassezia
Malassezia spp
Metabolism
Microbiomes
Microbiota
Microorganisms
Olive oil
Paraffin
Polyethylene glycol
Salts
Skin
Skin diseases
Staphylococcus spp
Strains (organisms)
Triglycerides
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Summary:Human skin is a complex ecosystem and is host to a large number of microorganisms. When the bacterial ecosystem is balanced and differentiated, skin remains healthy. However, the use of cosmetics can change this balance and promote the appearance of skin diseases. The skin’s microorganisms can utilize some cosmetic components, which either promote their growth, or produce metabolites that influence the skin environment. In this study, we tested the ability of the Malassezia species and some bacterial strains to assimilate substances frequently used in dermal formulations. The growth capability of microorganisms was determined and their lipase activity was analyzed. The growth of all Malassezia spp. in the presence of free acids, free acid esters, and fatty alcohols with a fatty chain length above 12 carbon atoms was observed. No growth was observed in the presence of fatty alcohol ethers, secondary fatty alcohols, paraffin- and silicon-based substances, polymers, polyethylene glycols, quaternary ammonium salts, hydroxy fatty acid esters, or fatty acids and fatty acid esters with a fatty chain length shorter than 12 carbon atoms. The hydrolysis of esters by Malassezia lipases was detected using High Performance Thin Layer Chromatography (HPTLC). The production of free fatty acids as well as fatty alcohols was observed. The growth promotion or inhibition of bacterial strains was only found in the presence of a few ingredients. Based on these results, formulations containing microbiome inert ingredients were developed.
ISSN:2079-9284
2079-9284
DOI:10.3390/cosmetics6030045