Biocosmetics Made with Saccharina latissima Fractions from Sustainable Treatment: Physicochemical and Thermorheological Features

• Published in: Marine drugs 2023-11, Vol.21 (12), p.618
• Main Authors: Flórez-Fernández, Noelia, Ferreira-Anta, Tania, Queffelec, Julie, Ingrez, Isa B, Buján, Manuela, Muiños, Antonio, Domínguez, Herminia, Torres, María Dolores
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Aging; Algae; Alginates; Alginic acid; Antioxidant properties; Antioxidants; brown seaweed; cold cream; Cold storage; Color; Cosmetics; Drug delivery systems; Glucose; Mannitol; Microparticles; Ostwald ripening; Polymers; Proteins; Raw materials; Rheological properties; Rheology; Saccharina latissima; Seaweed meal; Seaweeds; Skin; Solvents; Sonication; Sustainability; Syneresis; Temperature dependence; Ultrasonic imaging; Ultrasonic processing; Ultrasound; ultrasound-assisted extraction; Viscosity; Vitamin E
• ISSN: 1660-3397; 1660-3397
• DOI: 10.3390/md21120618

This work deals with the formulation of natural cosmetics enriched with antioxidant fractions from the ultrasound treatment (US) of the brown seaweed . The challenge was the development of a cosmetic matrix without jeopardizing the thermorheological features of the creams, adding microparticles containing the antioxidant fractions using two different carriers, mannitol and alginate. The fundamental chemical characteristics of seaweed and the extracts obtained sonication, as well as the antioxidant properties of the latter, were analyzed. The highest TEAC (Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity) value was identified for the extracts subjected to the longest processing time using ultrasound-assisted extraction (240 min). A similar yield of microparticle formulation (around 60%) and load capacity (about 85%) were identified with mannitol and alginate as carriers. Color testing of the creams exhibited small total color differences. The rheological results indicated that the testing temperature, from 5 to 45 °C, notably influenced the apparent viscosity of the matrices. All creams were adequately fitted with the two parameters of the Ostwald-de Waele model, with the flow consistency index following an Arrhenius dependency with the testing temperature. Neither hysteresis nor water syneresis was observed in the proposed cosmetics during 6 months of cold storage at 4-6 °C.