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Energy Transfers and Reflection of Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Waves
This study presents unpublished field observations of infragravity waves, collected at the dissipative beach of Saint‐Trojan (Oléron Island, France) during the storm Kurt (3 February 2017), characterized by incident short waves of significant heights reaching 9.5 m and peak periods reaching 22 s. Da...
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| Published in: | Journal of geophysical research. Oceans 2020-05, Vol.125 (5), p.n/a |
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| container_title | Journal of geophysical research. Oceans |
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| creator | Bertin, Xavier Martins, Kévin Bakker, Anouk Chataigner, Teddy Guérin, Thomas Coulombier, Thibault Viron, Olivier |
| description | This study presents unpublished field observations of infragravity waves, collected at the dissipative beach of Saint‐Trojan (Oléron Island, France) during the storm Kurt (3 February 2017), characterized by incident short waves of significant heights reaching 9.5 m and peak periods reaching 22 s. Data analysis reveals the development of exceptionally large infragravity waves, with significant heights reaching 1.85 m close to shore. Field observations are complemented by numerical modeling with XBeach, which well reproduces the development of such infragravity waves. Model results reveal that infragravity waves were generated mainly through the bound wave mechanism, enhanced by the development of a phase lag with the shortwave energy envelope. Spectral analysis of the free surface elevation shows the generation of superharmonic and subharmonic infragravity waves, the latter dominating the free surface elevation variance close to shore. Modeling results suggest that subharmonic infragravity waves result, at least partly, from infragravity‐wave merging, promoted by the combination of free and bound infragravity waves propagating across a several kilometer‐wide surf zone. Due to the steeper slope of the upper part of the beach profile, observed and modeled reflection coefficients under moderate‐energy show a strong tidal modulation, with a weak reflection at low tide (R2 |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1029/2019JC015714 |
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Key Points
Very large IG waves are observed at a dissipative beach under a storm, long‐period swell and are driven by the bound wave mechanism
In the surf zone, IG wave energy is transferred not only toward superharmonic but also toward subharmonic frequencies
IG wave reflection is tidally modulated and almost full at high tide due to the increase in beach slope</description><identifier>ISSN: 2169-9275</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 2169-9291</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1029/2019JC015714</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>Washington: Blackwell Publishing Ltd</publisher><subject>Beach profiles ; Beaches ; bound wave ; Coefficients ; Data analysis ; dissipative beach ; Earth Sciences ; Energy ; Free surfaces ; Geophysics ; High tide ; infragravity waves ; Low tide ; Mathematical models ; merging ; Modelling ; numerical model ; Oceanography ; Peak periods ; Phase lag ; Reflection ; Sciences of the Universe ; Spectral analysis ; Spectrum analysis ; Storm waves ; Storms ; Surf zone ; Variance analysis ; Wave propagation ; Wave reflection</subject><ispartof>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans, 2020-05, Vol.125 (5), p.n/a</ispartof><rights>2020. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.</rights><rights>Distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><oa>free_for_read</oa><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed><citedby>FETCH-LOGICAL-a4454-a031c8f60db93f05fbd59e9ed2a13cb32f47be8ab875b7784f256920feec85f03</citedby><cites>FETCH-LOGICAL-a4454-a031c8f60db93f05fbd59e9ed2a13cb32f47be8ab875b7784f256920feec85f03</cites><orcidid>0000-0002-5457-4187 ; 0000-0001-9138-4756 ; 0000-0001-6448-1841 ; 0000-0003-3112-9686 ; 0000-0002-2897-3117 ; 0000-0002-6979-7770</orcidid></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><link.rule.ids>230,314,780,784,885,27922,27923</link.rule.ids><backlink>$$Uhttps://univ-rochelle.hal.science/hal-02563121$$DView record in HAL$$Hfree_for_read</backlink></links><search><creatorcontrib>Bertin, Xavier</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Martins, Kévin</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Bakker, Anouk</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Chataigner, Teddy</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Guérin, Thomas</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Coulombier, Thibault</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Viron, Olivier</creatorcontrib><title>Energy Transfers and Reflection of Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Waves</title><title>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans</title><description>This study presents unpublished field observations of infragravity waves, collected at the dissipative beach of Saint‐Trojan (Oléron Island, France) during the storm Kurt (3 February 2017), characterized by incident short waves of significant heights reaching 9.5 m and peak periods reaching 22 s. Data analysis reveals the development of exceptionally large infragravity waves, with significant heights reaching 1.85 m close to shore. Field observations are complemented by numerical modeling with XBeach, which well reproduces the development of such infragravity waves. Model results reveal that infragravity waves were generated mainly through the bound wave mechanism, enhanced by the development of a phase lag with the shortwave energy envelope. Spectral analysis of the free surface elevation shows the generation of superharmonic and subharmonic infragravity waves, the latter dominating the free surface elevation variance close to shore. Modeling results suggest that subharmonic infragravity waves result, at least partly, from infragravity‐wave merging, promoted by the combination of free and bound infragravity waves propagating across a several kilometer‐wide surf zone. Due to the steeper slope of the upper part of the beach profile, observed and modeled reflection coefficients under moderate‐energy show a strong tidal modulation, with a weak reflection at low tide (R2<0.2) and a full reflection at high tide (R2∼1.0). Under storm waves, the observed reflection coefficients remain unusually high for a dissipative beach (R2∼0.5−1.0), which is explained by the development of subharmonic infragravity waves with frequencies around 0.005 Hz, too long to suffer a substantial dissipation.
Key Points
Very large IG waves are observed at a dissipative beach under a storm, long‐period swell and are driven by the bound wave mechanism
In the surf zone, IG wave energy is transferred not only toward superharmonic but also toward subharmonic frequencies
IG wave reflection is tidally modulated and almost full at high tide due to the increase in beach slope</description><subject>Beach profiles</subject><subject>Beaches</subject><subject>bound wave</subject><subject>Coefficients</subject><subject>Data analysis</subject><subject>dissipative beach</subject><subject>Earth Sciences</subject><subject>Energy</subject><subject>Free surfaces</subject><subject>Geophysics</subject><subject>High tide</subject><subject>infragravity waves</subject><subject>Low tide</subject><subject>Mathematical models</subject><subject>merging</subject><subject>Modelling</subject><subject>numerical model</subject><subject>Oceanography</subject><subject>Peak periods</subject><subject>Phase lag</subject><subject>Reflection</subject><subject>Sciences of the Universe</subject><subject>Spectral analysis</subject><subject>Spectrum analysis</subject><subject>Storm waves</subject><subject>Storms</subject><subject>Surf zone</subject><subject>Variance analysis</subject><subject>Wave propagation</subject><subject>Wave reflection</subject><issn>2169-9275</issn><issn>2169-9291</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2020</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><recordid>eNp90EtLw0AQAOAgCpbamz9gwZNgdZ9J9lhj7YOCUFu8uWyS2TYlTepuGsm_NyVSPDmXGYZvhmE875bgR4KpfKKYyHmEiQgIv_B6lPhyKKkkl-c6ENfewLkdbiMkIeey532OC7CbBq2sLpwB65AuUrQEk0NSZWWBSoNmhbF6Y3WdVQ360DW0qEIavWTOZQddZTWgZ9DJFq2LFCx6r0q77-CNd2V07mDwm_ve-nW8iqbDxdtkFo0WQ8254EONGUlC4-M0lsxgYeJUSJCQUk1YEjNqeBBDqOMwEHEQhNxQ4UuKDUASCoNZ37vv9m51rg4222vbqFJnajpaqFMPtwOMUFKT1t519mDLryO4Su3Koy3a8xTlRAY-DuhJPXQqsaVzFsx5LcHq9HD19-EtZx3_znJo_rVqPllGlEnB2Q-mIYAS</recordid><startdate>202005</startdate><enddate>202005</enddate><creator>Bertin, Xavier</creator><creator>Martins, Kévin</creator><creator>Bakker, Anouk</creator><creator>Chataigner, Teddy</creator><creator>Guérin, Thomas</creator><creator>Coulombier, Thibault</creator><creator>Viron, Olivier</creator><general>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</general><general>Wiley-Blackwell</general><scope>AAYXX</scope><scope>CITATION</scope><scope>7TG</scope><scope>7TN</scope><scope>F1W</scope><scope>H96</scope><scope>KL.</scope><scope>L.G</scope><scope>1XC</scope><scope>VOOES</scope><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5457-4187</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9138-4756</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6448-1841</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3112-9686</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2897-3117</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6979-7770</orcidid></search><sort><creationdate>202005</creationdate><title>Energy Transfers and Reflection of Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Waves</title><author>Bertin, Xavier ; Martins, Kévin ; Bakker, Anouk ; Chataigner, Teddy ; Guérin, Thomas ; Coulombier, Thibault ; Viron, Olivier</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-a4454-a031c8f60db93f05fbd59e9ed2a13cb32f47be8ab875b7784f256920feec85f03</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2020</creationdate><topic>Beach profiles</topic><topic>Beaches</topic><topic>bound wave</topic><topic>Coefficients</topic><topic>Data analysis</topic><topic>dissipative beach</topic><topic>Earth Sciences</topic><topic>Energy</topic><topic>Free surfaces</topic><topic>Geophysics</topic><topic>High tide</topic><topic>infragravity waves</topic><topic>Low tide</topic><topic>Mathematical models</topic><topic>merging</topic><topic>Modelling</topic><topic>numerical model</topic><topic>Oceanography</topic><topic>Peak periods</topic><topic>Phase lag</topic><topic>Reflection</topic><topic>Sciences of the Universe</topic><topic>Spectral analysis</topic><topic>Spectrum analysis</topic><topic>Storm waves</topic><topic>Storms</topic><topic>Surf zone</topic><topic>Variance analysis</topic><topic>Wave propagation</topic><topic>Wave reflection</topic><toplevel>peer_reviewed</toplevel><toplevel>online_resources</toplevel><creatorcontrib>Bertin, Xavier</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Martins, Kévin</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Bakker, Anouk</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Chataigner, Teddy</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Guérin, Thomas</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Coulombier, Thibault</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Viron, Olivier</creatorcontrib><collection>CrossRef</collection><collection>Meteorological & Geoastrophysical Abstracts</collection><collection>Oceanic Abstracts</collection><collection>ASFA: Aquatic Sciences and Fisheries Abstracts</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) 2: Ocean Technology, Policy & Non-Living Resources</collection><collection>Meteorological & Geoastrophysical Abstracts - Academic</collection><collection>Aquatic Science & Fisheries Abstracts (ASFA) Professional</collection><collection>Hyper Article en Ligne (HAL)</collection><collection>Hyper Article en Ligne (HAL) (Open Access)</collection><jtitle>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans</jtitle></facets><delivery><delcategory>Remote Search Resource</delcategory><fulltext>fulltext</fulltext></delivery><addata><au>Bertin, Xavier</au><au>Martins, Kévin</au><au>Bakker, Anouk</au><au>Chataigner, Teddy</au><au>Guérin, Thomas</au><au>Coulombier, Thibault</au><au>Viron, Olivier</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>Energy Transfers and Reflection of Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Waves</atitle><jtitle>Journal of geophysical research. Oceans</jtitle><date>2020-05</date><risdate>2020</risdate><volume>125</volume><issue>5</issue><epage>n/a</epage><issn>2169-9275</issn><eissn>2169-9291</eissn><abstract>This study presents unpublished field observations of infragravity waves, collected at the dissipative beach of Saint‐Trojan (Oléron Island, France) during the storm Kurt (3 February 2017), characterized by incident short waves of significant heights reaching 9.5 m and peak periods reaching 22 s. Data analysis reveals the development of exceptionally large infragravity waves, with significant heights reaching 1.85 m close to shore. Field observations are complemented by numerical modeling with XBeach, which well reproduces the development of such infragravity waves. Model results reveal that infragravity waves were generated mainly through the bound wave mechanism, enhanced by the development of a phase lag with the shortwave energy envelope. Spectral analysis of the free surface elevation shows the generation of superharmonic and subharmonic infragravity waves, the latter dominating the free surface elevation variance close to shore. Modeling results suggest that subharmonic infragravity waves result, at least partly, from infragravity‐wave merging, promoted by the combination of free and bound infragravity waves propagating across a several kilometer‐wide surf zone. Due to the steeper slope of the upper part of the beach profile, observed and modeled reflection coefficients under moderate‐energy show a strong tidal modulation, with a weak reflection at low tide (R2<0.2) and a full reflection at high tide (R2∼1.0). Under storm waves, the observed reflection coefficients remain unusually high for a dissipative beach (R2∼0.5−1.0), which is explained by the development of subharmonic infragravity waves with frequencies around 0.005 Hz, too long to suffer a substantial dissipation.
Key Points
Very large IG waves are observed at a dissipative beach under a storm, long‐period swell and are driven by the bound wave mechanism
In the surf zone, IG wave energy is transferred not only toward superharmonic but also toward subharmonic frequencies
IG wave reflection is tidally modulated and almost full at high tide due to the increase in beach slope</abstract><cop>Washington</cop><pub>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</pub><doi>10.1029/2019JC015714</doi><tpages>18</tpages><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5457-4187</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9138-4756</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6448-1841</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3112-9686</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2897-3117</orcidid><orcidid>https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6979-7770</orcidid><oa>free_for_read</oa></addata></record> |
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| source | Wiley:Jisc Collections:Wiley Read and Publish Open Access 2024-2025 (reading list); Alma/SFX Local Collection |
| subjects | Beach profiles Beaches bound wave Coefficients Data analysis dissipative beach Earth Sciences Energy Free surfaces Geophysics High tide infragravity waves Low tide Mathematical models merging Modelling numerical model Oceanography Peak periods Phase lag Reflection Sciences of the Universe Spectral analysis Spectrum analysis Storm waves Storms Surf zone Variance analysis Wave propagation Wave reflection |
| title | Energy Transfers and Reflection of Infragravity Waves at a Dissipative Beach Under Storm Waves |
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