Nonlinear Waves on Steep Slopes

A high accuracy Boundary Element Method for fully nonlinear waves has been developed which solves the problems in physical space and, hence, can readily deal with boundaries, structures and bottom topographies of arbitrary shape. It is applied to runup and reflection of waves on steep slopes and ver...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Journal of coastal research 1990-04, p.185-202
Main Authors: Svendsen, Ib A., Grilli, Stéphan T.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Approximation
Coastal engineering
Differential equations
Hydrostatic pressure
Modeling
Solitons
Velocity
Velocity distribution
Water waves
Waves
Online Access:Get full text
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Summary:A high accuracy Boundary Element Method for fully nonlinear waves has been developed which solves the problems in physical space and, hence, can readily deal with boundaries, structures and bottom topographies of arbitrary shape. It is applied to runup and reflection of waves on steep slopes and verified by comparison with surface measurements in laboratory experiments with a solitary wave. Subsequently, the method is used to give a detailed picture of the internal velocity field inside the wave and the pressure along the slope as it develops during uprush and downrush. The relevance and validity of, particularly, models based on the nonlinear shallow water equations are examined.
ISSN:0749-0208
1551-5036