The role of physique, strength and endurance in the achievements of elite climbers

• Published in: PloS one 2017-08, Vol.12 (8), p.e0182026-e0182026
• Main Authors: Ozimek, Mariusz, Rokowski, Robert, Draga, Paweł, Ljakh, Vladimir, Ambroży, Tadeusz, Krawczyk, Marcin, Ręgwelski, Tomasz, Stanula, Arkadiusz, Görner, Karol, Jurczak, Adam, Mucha, Dariusz
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Achievement; Adult; Age; Analysis; Anthropometry; Arm; Biology and Life Sciences; Body Composition; Body fat; Body mass; Body mass index; Climbing; Endurance; Exercise; Exercise tests; Fatigue; Fatigue tests; Finger; Forearm; Hand Strength - physiology; Humans; Lean body mass; Ledges; Male; Medicine and Health Sciences; Motor Activity - physiology; Motor task performance; Mountaineering - physiology; Physical education; Physical Endurance - physiology; Physiology; Recreation; Research and Analysis Methods; Rock climbing; Strength; Thigh; Tourism
• ISSN: 1932-6203; 1932-6203
• DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0182026

The primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers. Twenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference. The BMI, Rohrer ratio, and Ape Index were also measured. The following motor tests were assessed: a specific test for finger strength, an arm strength test, and a test of muscle endurance (hanging from 2.5 and 4 cm ledges). In addition, pull ups were used to measure muscle resistance to fatigue. Elite climbers recorded significantly higher values for finger strength than advanced climbers (129.08 vs. 111.54 kg; t(18) = 2.35, p = 0.03) and arm endurance (33.17 vs. 25.75 pull ups; t(18) = 2.54, p = 0.02). In addition, the calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003). The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers.