Gravel beach profile response allowing for bimodal sea states

The south coast of the UK is identified as a location where significant wave swell components are present within the regional wave climate. During the winters of 2006 and 2014, several sites along the south coast of the UK were subject to significant damages where flood events were recorded. These s...

Full description

Saved in:
Bibliographic Details
Published in:Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers. Maritime engineering 2018-12, Vol.171 (4), p.145-166
Main Authors: Polidoro, Andrea, Pullen, Tim, Eade, Jack, Mason, Travis, Blanco, Belen, Wyncoll, David
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Beach erosion
Beach profiles
Beaches
Coasts
Environmental monitoring
Erosion
Gravel
Mathematical models
Sea states
Shingle
Significant waves
Spectra
Swell
Two dimensional models
Wave climate
Wave spectra
Websites
Wind waves
Citations: Items that this one cites
Items that cite this one
Online Access:Get full text
Tags: Add Tag
No Tags, Be the first to tag this record!
Description
Summary:The south coast of the UK is identified as a location where significant wave swell components are present within the regional wave climate. During the winters of 2006 and 2014, several sites along the south coast of the UK were subject to significant damages where flood events were recorded. These sea states were characterised by having a double-peaked wave spectra, observing a connection between wave spectrum shape and beach response. A two-dimensional (2D) physical model study was carried out to investigate the effect of gravel beach profile response under wave spectra characterised by swell-wave and wind-wave periods in various combinations. The physical model results showed the effect of bimodal wave spectrum on beach crest erosion and were compared with the parametric model Shingle and the numerical model XBeach-G. Based on this 2D physical model study, a new parametric model, Shingle-B, was derived and an online tool developed and made available on the website for the National Network of Regional Coastal Monitoring Programmes of England. This new tool has been validated at two sites in the south of England where field data of both waves and profiles were available.
ISSN:1741-7597
1751-7737
DOI:10.1680/jmaen.2018.11