Pulque and pulquerías of Mexico City: a traditional fermented beverage and spaces of biocultural conservation

• Published in: Journal of Ethnic Foods 2022-10, Vol.9 (1), p.1-11
• Main Authors: Gonzalo D. Álvarez-Ríos, Alejandro Casas, Lucía Pérez-Volkow, Carmen J. Figueredo-Urbina, Juan de Dios Páramo-Gómez, Mariana Vallejo
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: 16th century; 19th century; Agave; Beverages; Cities; Consumption; Cultural factors; Decomposition; Fruits; Healthy food; Identity; Identity formation; Mesoamerican food; Microorganisms; Mixtures; Popularity; Socialization; Traditional knowledge; Urban foodways; Vegetables
• ISSN: 2352-6181; 2352-619X; 2352-6181
• DOI: 10.1186/s42779-022-00155-2

Pulque is a fermented beverage prepared with the sap of agave species, consumed since pre-Hispanic times in Mexico. In the sixteenth century, spaces called pulquerías were established for the sale and consumption of pulque. The demand for pulque became so high that there were more than 1500 pulquerías in Mexico City early twentieth century, but due to socio-cultural factors, the popularity of pulque plummeted. Currently, there are few pulquerías in Mexico City, and these are the main spaces for the consumption of this beverage in the metropolis. The pulque sold in pulquerías comes from eight localities, largely from Nanacamilpa, Tlaxcala. People working in pulquerías have deep knowledge and specific practices to keep pulque in good conditions and to prepare it in a wide spectrum of flavors by mixing the fermented beverage with fruits, vegetables or seeds. We recorded 69 types of pulque mixtures. Pulquerías allow the economic maintenance of working families in urban and rural contexts, are spaces of socialization, and identity and help the conservation of an ancient traditional beverage.