Potential of antioxidant extracts produced by aqueous processing of renewable resources for the formulation of cosmetics

•Natural extracts from underutilized biomass were produced with green solvents.•The extracts were as active as commercial antioxidants and safe for topical use.•The extracts at 0.4–0.5% reduced lipid oxidation in cosmetic model emulsions. The performance of natural extracts obtained from underutiliz...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Industrial crops and products 2014-07, Vol.58, p.104-110
Main Authors: Balboa, Elena M., Soto, Maria Luisa, Nogueira, Daniele R., González-López, Noelia, Conde, Enma, Moure, Andrés, Vinardell, María Pilar, Mitjans, Montserrat, Domínguez, Herminia
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Antioxidants
Autohydrolysis
Biomass
Chestnut burs
Cosmetics
Emulsions
Ethyl alcohol
Extraction
Oxidation
Oxidative stability
Renewable resources
Sargassum muticum
Ulva lactuca
Winery byproducts
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Summary:•Natural extracts from underutilized biomass were produced with green solvents.•The extracts were as active as commercial antioxidants and safe for topical use.•The extracts at 0.4–0.5% reduced lipid oxidation in cosmetic model emulsions. The performance of natural extracts obtained from underutilized and residual vegetal and macroalgal biomass processed with food-grade green solvents was compared with that of commercial antioxidants. Selected extracts were obtained from two terrestrial sources: winery byproducts concentrate (WBC) and chestnut burs hydrothermally fractionated extract (CBAE), and from two underutilized seaweeds: Sargassum muticum extracts, either extracted with ethanol (SmEE) or after alginate extraction and hydrothermal fractionation (SmAE) and from Ulva lactuca processed by mild acid extraction and membrane concentration (UlAE). These extracts showed in vitro antioxidant properties comparable to commercial antioxidants and were safe for topical use based on the absence of skin-irritant effects at 0.1% on reconstructed human tissues. The stability of several cosmetic model emulsions was assessed during accelerated oxidation assays. The incorporation of natural extracts produced from renewable underutilized resources at 0.4–0.5% in an oil-in-water emulsions reduced lipid oxidation during storage.
ISSN:0926-6690
1872-633X
DOI:10.1016/j.indcrop.2014.03.041