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Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects
Synopsis Objective The study was undertaken to compare the skin care related activities of retinol and bakuchiol, a potential alternative to retinoids. Retinol is a pivotal regulator of differentiation and growth of developing as well as adult skin. Retinoic acid is the major physiologically active...
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Published in: | International journal of cosmetic science 2014-06, Vol.36 (3), p.221-230 |
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Main Authors: | , |
Format: | Article |
Language: | English |
Subjects: | |
Citations: | Items that this one cites Items that cite this one |
Online Access: | Get full text |
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Summary: | Synopsis
Objective
The study was undertaken to compare the skin care related activities of retinol and bakuchiol, a potential alternative to retinoids. Retinol is a pivotal regulator of differentiation and growth of developing as well as adult skin. Retinoic acid is the major physiologically active metabolite of retinol regulating gene expression through retinoic acid receptor – dependant and independent pathways.
Methods
Comparative gene expression profiling of both substances in the EpiDerm FT full thickness skin substitute model was undertaken. Furthermore, type I, III and IV collagen, as well as aquaporin 3 expression was analyzed by ELISA and/or histochemistry in human dermal fibroblasts and/or Epiderm FT skin substitutes.
Results
Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol abundant in seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea corylifolia. We present evidence that bakuchiol, having no structural resemblance to retinoids, can function as a functional analogue of retinol. Volcano plots showed great overall similarity of retinol and bakuchiol effects on the gene expression profile. This similarity was confirmed by the side‐by‐side comparison of the modulation of individual genes, as well as on the protein level by ELISA and histochemistry. Retinol‐like functionality was further confirmed for the upregulation of types I and IV collagen in DNA microarray study and also show stimulation of type III collagen in the mature fibroblast model. Bakuchiol was also formulated into a finished skin care product and was tested in clinical case study by twice‐a‐day facial application. The results showed that, after 12 weeks treatment, significant improvement in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall reduction in photo‐damage was observed, without usual retinol therapy‐associated undesirable effects.
Conclusion
Based on these data, we propose that bakuchiol can function as an anti‐ageing compound through retinol‐like regulation of gene expression.
A comparative gene expression profiling between retinol and bakuchiol revealed retinol‐like functional properties of bakuchiol.
Résumé
Objectif
L'étude a été menée pour comparer les activités liées aux soins de la peau du rétinol et du bakuchiol, une alternative potentielle aux rétinoïdes. Le rétinol est un régulateur essentiel de la différenciation et de la croissance de la peau en développement ainsi que la peau des adultes. L'acide rétinoïque est le principal métabolite physiologiquement actif du rétinol qui |
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ISSN: | 0142-5463 1468-2494 |
DOI: | 10.1111/ics.12117 |