Supercritical CO2 extract from strawberry seeds as a valuable component of mild cleansing compositions

• Published in: International journal of cosmetic science 2015-12, Vol.37 (6), p.574-578
• Main Authors: Sikora, E., Michorczyk, P., Olszańska, M., Ogonowski, J.
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: bath products; Carbon Dioxide - chemistry; Chromatography, Supercritical Fluid; Cosmetics; Dermatologic Agents; formulation; Fragaria - embryology; Influence; Plant Extracts - pharmacology; Seeds; shower; Skin; stability
• ISSN: 0142-5463; 1468-2494
• DOI: 10.1111/ics.12234

Synopsis Objective The aim of this work was an elaboration of mild cleansing compositions, containing supercritical CO2 extract from strawberry seeds (SC‐CO2 strawberry seed oil), as a moisturizing and skin‐softening agent. The influence of concentration of the oil on user properties of shower/bath products was studied. Methods A series of products (shower/bath cosmetics) composed mainly of mild surfactants (amphoacetates, sulfosuccinates, betaines) and containing different amounts of the oil (0.5 up to 5.0%) were prepared. For the stable products (formulations containing up to 2% of the oil), the influence of the SC‐CO2 strawberry seed oil addition on the products’ stability, foam ability, surface tension, pH and rheological properties was studied. Moreover, the skin compatibility and moisturizing efficiency of the cleansing products were recorded in a group of 15 volunteers (including 10 women and five men, aged 20–30 years), using skin diagnosis system AramoTS, Aram Huvis Co. Additionally, characterization of CO2 extract from strawberry seeds was performed. Measurements of the oil's analytical constants, that is acid value and saponification number, were conducted according to Polish Standard PN‐EN ISO 660:2010 and PN‐EN ISO 3657:2013, respectively. Results The oil concentration influences stability of the products. Only the formulations containing 0.5–2% of the extract have shown high stability. Moreover, used in the amount up to 2% the SC‐CO2, strawberry seed oil does not affect significantly the cleansing and foaming properties of the products. The obtained shower/bath cosmetics showed good user properties and additionally good skin‐moisturizing effect. Conclusion The supercritical CO2 extract from strawberry seeds, rich source of unsaturated fatty acid, could be successfully used in the formulation of body washing compositions as a moisturizing and skin‐softening agent. Résumé Objectif L'objectif de ce travail était une élaboration de compositions doux de nettoyage, contenant un extrait de graines de fraises obtenu par du CO2 supercritique (SC‐CO2 huile de graines de fraise), comme hydratant de la peau et agent adoucissant. L'influence de la concentration de l'huile sur les propriétés de l'utilisation des produits douche / produits de bain a été étudiée. Methode Une série de produits (pour douche ou bain) composés principalement de tensioactifs doux (amphoacétates, les sulfosuccinates, bétaïnes) et contenant différentes quantités de l'huile (0.5 à 5