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Effect of cosmetic matrices on the release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L
Objective In this study, the effect of different cosmetic matrices on the release profile and odour intensity of the fragrance O. majorana was investigated for the first time. Methods The fragrance compounds of O. majorana were extracted by supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE‐CO...
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| Published in: | International journal of cosmetic science 2016-08, Vol.38 (4), p.364-374 |
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| Language: | English |
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| container_end_page | 374 |
| container_issue | 4 |
| container_start_page | 364 |
| container_title | International journal of cosmetic science |
| container_volume | 38 |
| creator | Costa, P. Velasco, C. V. Loureiro, J. M. Rodrigues, A. E. |
| description | Objective
In this study, the effect of different cosmetic matrices on the release profile and odour intensity of the fragrance O. majorana was investigated for the first time.
Methods
The fragrance compounds of O. majorana were extracted by supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE‐CO2) at 40°C and two operating pressures (8.5 and 10 MPa), and their chemical profiles were assessed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector coupled with mass spectrometry (GC‐FID/MS). Lastly, the fragrance compounds were incorporated into three cosmetic matrices (glycerine, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion) to assess their release and odour profiles over time using dynamic headspace (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS and Odour Value concept, respectively.
Results
The SFE‐CO2 enabled recovering extracts with the pleasant scent of the living plant, and the increment of pressure induced an increase on the extraction yield. GC‐FID/MS analyses revealed that oxygen‐containing monoterpenes was the principal group of components identified in both SFE‐CO2 extracts. The fragrance compounds were more retained in dipropylene glycol, and the major deviations from the original odour intensity (control) were observed in the presence of dipropylene glycol and skin lotion.
Conclusion
The hydrophilic character of the cosmetic matrices strongly influenced the release of the fragrance compounds, thus affecting the odour profile of the studied mixtures.
Résumé
Objectif
Dans cette étude, l'effet de différentes matrices cosmétiques sur le profil de libération et de l'intensité de l'odeur du parfum O. majorana a été étudié pour la première fois.
Methodes
Les composés parfumés de O. majorana ont été extraits par extraction de fluide supercritique utilisant le dioxyde de carbone (SFE‐CO2) à 40°C et à deux pressions de fonctionnement (8.5 et 10 MPa), et leurs profils chimiques ont été évalués par chromatographie en phase gazeuse avec détecteur à ionisation de flamme couplée à la spectrométrie de masse (GC‐FID/MS). Enfin, les composés de parfum ont été incorporés dans trois matrices cosmétiques (glycérine, le dipropylèneglycol et lotion pour la peau) afin d’évaluer leurs profils de libération et d'odeur dans le temps en utilisant le headspace dynamique (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS et Odour Value concept, respectivement.
Résultats
Le SFE‐CO2 a permis la récupération d'extraits avec l'agréable parfum de la plante vivante, et l'augmentation de la pression induit une augmentation du rendement d'extraction. L'an |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1111/ics.12297 |
| format | article |
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In this study, the effect of different cosmetic matrices on the release profile and odour intensity of the fragrance O. majorana was investigated for the first time.
Methods
The fragrance compounds of O. majorana were extracted by supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE‐CO2) at 40°C and two operating pressures (8.5 and 10 MPa), and their chemical profiles were assessed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector coupled with mass spectrometry (GC‐FID/MS). Lastly, the fragrance compounds were incorporated into three cosmetic matrices (glycerine, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion) to assess their release and odour profiles over time using dynamic headspace (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS and Odour Value concept, respectively.
Results
The SFE‐CO2 enabled recovering extracts with the pleasant scent of the living plant, and the increment of pressure induced an increase on the extraction yield. GC‐FID/MS analyses revealed that oxygen‐containing monoterpenes was the principal group of components identified in both SFE‐CO2 extracts. The fragrance compounds were more retained in dipropylene glycol, and the major deviations from the original odour intensity (control) were observed in the presence of dipropylene glycol and skin lotion.
Conclusion
The hydrophilic character of the cosmetic matrices strongly influenced the release of the fragrance compounds, thus affecting the odour profile of the studied mixtures.
Résumé
Objectif
Dans cette étude, l'effet de différentes matrices cosmétiques sur le profil de libération et de l'intensité de l'odeur du parfum O. majorana a été étudié pour la première fois.
Methodes
Les composés parfumés de O. majorana ont été extraits par extraction de fluide supercritique utilisant le dioxyde de carbone (SFE‐CO2) à 40°C et à deux pressions de fonctionnement (8.5 et 10 MPa), et leurs profils chimiques ont été évalués par chromatographie en phase gazeuse avec détecteur à ionisation de flamme couplée à la spectrométrie de masse (GC‐FID/MS). Enfin, les composés de parfum ont été incorporés dans trois matrices cosmétiques (glycérine, le dipropylèneglycol et lotion pour la peau) afin d’évaluer leurs profils de libération et d'odeur dans le temps en utilisant le headspace dynamique (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS et Odour Value concept, respectivement.
Résultats
Le SFE‐CO2 a permis la récupération d'extraits avec l'agréable parfum de la plante vivante, et l'augmentation de la pression induit une augmentation du rendement d'extraction. L'analyse GC‐FID/MS a révélé que les monoterpènes contenant de l'oxygène étaient le principal groupe de composants identifiés dans les deux extraits SFE‐CO2. Les composés de parfum sont plus conservés dans le dipropylène glycol; les écarts majeurs par rapport à l'intensité de l'odeur d'origine (témoin) ont été observés en présence de dipropylène glycol et dans la lotion pour la peau.
Conclusion
Le caractère hydrophile des matrices cosmétiques influence fortement la libération des composés parfumés affectant ainsi le profil de l'odeur des mélanges étudiés.
The release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L. is strongly influenced by the hydrophilic character of the studied cosmetic matrices: glycerin, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion.</description><identifier>ISSN: 0142-5463</identifier><identifier>EISSN: 1468-2494</identifier><identifier>DOI: 10.1111/ics.12297</identifier><identifier>PMID: 26611174</identifier><identifier>CODEN: IJCMDW</identifier><language>eng</language><publisher>England: Blackwell Publishing Ltd</publisher><subject>Carbon dioxide ; Carbon Dioxide - chemistry ; Chromatography, Gas ; Chromatography, Supercritical Fluid ; cosmetic solvents ; Cosmetics ; Cosmetics industry ; fragrance compounds ; Gas chromatography ; headspace profile ; Ionization ; Mass Spectrometry ; Monoterpenes ; Odorants ; Odors ; odour value concept ; Oils, Volatile - chemistry ; Origanum - chemistry ; Plant Extracts - chemistry ; topical formulation ; VOCs ; Volatile organic compounds</subject><ispartof>International journal of cosmetic science, 2016-08, Vol.38 (4), p.364-374</ispartof><rights>2015 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie</rights><rights>2015 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.</rights><rights>Copyright © 2016 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie</rights><lds50>peer_reviewed</lds50><oa>free_for_read</oa><woscitedreferencessubscribed>false</woscitedreferencessubscribed></display><links><openurl>$$Topenurl_article</openurl><openurlfulltext>$$Topenurlfull_article</openurlfulltext><thumbnail>$$Tsyndetics_thumb_exl</thumbnail><link.rule.ids>314,780,784,27924,27925</link.rule.ids><backlink>$$Uhttps://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26611174$$D View this record in MEDLINE/PubMed$$Hfree_for_read</backlink></links><search><creatorcontrib>Costa, P.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Velasco, C. V.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Loureiro, J. M.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Rodrigues, A. E.</creatorcontrib><title>Effect of cosmetic matrices on the release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L</title><title>International journal of cosmetic science</title><addtitle>Int J Cosmet Sci</addtitle><description>Objective
In this study, the effect of different cosmetic matrices on the release profile and odour intensity of the fragrance O. majorana was investigated for the first time.
Methods
The fragrance compounds of O. majorana were extracted by supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE‐CO2) at 40°C and two operating pressures (8.5 and 10 MPa), and their chemical profiles were assessed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector coupled with mass spectrometry (GC‐FID/MS). Lastly, the fragrance compounds were incorporated into three cosmetic matrices (glycerine, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion) to assess their release and odour profiles over time using dynamic headspace (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS and Odour Value concept, respectively.
Results
The SFE‐CO2 enabled recovering extracts with the pleasant scent of the living plant, and the increment of pressure induced an increase on the extraction yield. GC‐FID/MS analyses revealed that oxygen‐containing monoterpenes was the principal group of components identified in both SFE‐CO2 extracts. The fragrance compounds were more retained in dipropylene glycol, and the major deviations from the original odour intensity (control) were observed in the presence of dipropylene glycol and skin lotion.
Conclusion
The hydrophilic character of the cosmetic matrices strongly influenced the release of the fragrance compounds, thus affecting the odour profile of the studied mixtures.
Résumé
Objectif
Dans cette étude, l'effet de différentes matrices cosmétiques sur le profil de libération et de l'intensité de l'odeur du parfum O. majorana a été étudié pour la première fois.
Methodes
Les composés parfumés de O. majorana ont été extraits par extraction de fluide supercritique utilisant le dioxyde de carbone (SFE‐CO2) à 40°C et à deux pressions de fonctionnement (8.5 et 10 MPa), et leurs profils chimiques ont été évalués par chromatographie en phase gazeuse avec détecteur à ionisation de flamme couplée à la spectrométrie de masse (GC‐FID/MS). Enfin, les composés de parfum ont été incorporés dans trois matrices cosmétiques (glycérine, le dipropylèneglycol et lotion pour la peau) afin d’évaluer leurs profils de libération et d'odeur dans le temps en utilisant le headspace dynamique (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS et Odour Value concept, respectivement.
Résultats
Le SFE‐CO2 a permis la récupération d'extraits avec l'agréable parfum de la plante vivante, et l'augmentation de la pression induit une augmentation du rendement d'extraction. L'analyse GC‐FID/MS a révélé que les monoterpènes contenant de l'oxygène étaient le principal groupe de composants identifiés dans les deux extraits SFE‐CO2. Les composés de parfum sont plus conservés dans le dipropylène glycol; les écarts majeurs par rapport à l'intensité de l'odeur d'origine (témoin) ont été observés en présence de dipropylène glycol et dans la lotion pour la peau.
Conclusion
Le caractère hydrophile des matrices cosmétiques influence fortement la libération des composés parfumés affectant ainsi le profil de l'odeur des mélanges étudiés.
The release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L. is strongly influenced by the hydrophilic character of the studied cosmetic matrices: glycerin, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion.</description><subject>Carbon dioxide</subject><subject>Carbon Dioxide - chemistry</subject><subject>Chromatography, Gas</subject><subject>Chromatography, Supercritical Fluid</subject><subject>cosmetic solvents</subject><subject>Cosmetics</subject><subject>Cosmetics industry</subject><subject>fragrance compounds</subject><subject>Gas chromatography</subject><subject>headspace profile</subject><subject>Ionization</subject><subject>Mass Spectrometry</subject><subject>Monoterpenes</subject><subject>Odorants</subject><subject>Odors</subject><subject>odour value concept</subject><subject>Oils, Volatile - chemistry</subject><subject>Origanum - chemistry</subject><subject>Plant Extracts - chemistry</subject><subject>topical formulation</subject><subject>VOCs</subject><subject>Volatile organic compounds</subject><issn>0142-5463</issn><issn>1468-2494</issn><fulltext>true</fulltext><rsrctype>article</rsrctype><creationdate>2016</creationdate><recordtype>article</recordtype><recordid>eNpdkUtvUzEQhS1ERUNhwR9Altiwua3fvl6iqC8paoC0sLQc3zE43Eew7xXtv6-TtF3gzVia7xzNzEHoAyWntLyz6PMpZczoV2hGhaorJox4jWaEClZJofgxepvzhhAiTM3foGOmVNFpMUPTeQjgRzwE7IfcwRg97tyYooeMhx6PvwEnaMFlwK5v8NAMU8LbNITY7oiwJ_K0heRTLGrX4vmSYbgfkzv4LlP85fqpK76bIbne4cU7dBRcm-H9Uz1Bdxfnt_OrarG8vJ5_WVSRC6ErzbSX4Dyv197UJkjKdVkvKE01V0rJEBriCW3WknPWgNdaaiq8k9JL0RB-gj4ffMvAfyfIo-1i9tC2rodhypbWhGvDFTEF_fQfuimb9mW6HcWM4VKyQn18oqZ1B43dpti59GCfD1qAswPwr9zn4aVPid0lZUtSdp-UvZ6v9p-iqA6KmEe4f1G49McqzbW0P28u7dcfq-9XF4tvdsUfAQafk9Y</recordid><startdate>201608</startdate><enddate>201608</enddate><creator>Costa, P.</creator><creator>Velasco, C. V.</creator><creator>Loureiro, J. M.</creator><creator>Rodrigues, A. E.</creator><general>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</general><general>Wiley Subscription Services, Inc</general><scope>BSCLL</scope><scope>CGR</scope><scope>CUY</scope><scope>CVF</scope><scope>ECM</scope><scope>EIF</scope><scope>NPM</scope><scope>7QR</scope><scope>7U7</scope><scope>8FD</scope><scope>C1K</scope><scope>FR3</scope><scope>P64</scope><scope>7X8</scope></search><sort><creationdate>201608</creationdate><title>Effect of cosmetic matrices on the release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L</title><author>Costa, P. ; Velasco, C. V. ; Loureiro, J. M. ; Rodrigues, A. E.</author></sort><facets><frbrtype>5</frbrtype><frbrgroupid>cdi_FETCH-LOGICAL-i3447-727c5eac38bc989f5137468f671736665ffd0c01db5332dec775714ca55c54d03</frbrgroupid><rsrctype>articles</rsrctype><prefilter>articles</prefilter><language>eng</language><creationdate>2016</creationdate><topic>Carbon dioxide</topic><topic>Carbon Dioxide - chemistry</topic><topic>Chromatography, Gas</topic><topic>Chromatography, Supercritical Fluid</topic><topic>cosmetic solvents</topic><topic>Cosmetics</topic><topic>Cosmetics industry</topic><topic>fragrance compounds</topic><topic>Gas chromatography</topic><topic>headspace profile</topic><topic>Ionization</topic><topic>Mass Spectrometry</topic><topic>Monoterpenes</topic><topic>Odorants</topic><topic>Odors</topic><topic>odour value concept</topic><topic>Oils, Volatile - chemistry</topic><topic>Origanum - chemistry</topic><topic>Plant Extracts - chemistry</topic><topic>topical formulation</topic><topic>VOCs</topic><topic>Volatile organic compounds</topic><toplevel>peer_reviewed</toplevel><toplevel>online_resources</toplevel><creatorcontrib>Costa, P.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Velasco, C. V.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Loureiro, J. M.</creatorcontrib><creatorcontrib>Rodrigues, A. E.</creatorcontrib><collection>Istex</collection><collection>Medline</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>MEDLINE (Ovid)</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>MEDLINE</collection><collection>PubMed</collection><collection>Chemoreception Abstracts</collection><collection>Toxicology Abstracts</collection><collection>Technology Research Database</collection><collection>Environmental Sciences and Pollution Management</collection><collection>Engineering Research Database</collection><collection>Biotechnology and BioEngineering Abstracts</collection><collection>MEDLINE - Academic</collection><jtitle>International journal of cosmetic science</jtitle></facets><delivery><delcategory>Remote Search Resource</delcategory><fulltext>fulltext</fulltext></delivery><addata><au>Costa, P.</au><au>Velasco, C. V.</au><au>Loureiro, J. M.</au><au>Rodrigues, A. E.</au><format>journal</format><genre>article</genre><ristype>JOUR</ristype><atitle>Effect of cosmetic matrices on the release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L</atitle><jtitle>International journal of cosmetic science</jtitle><addtitle>Int J Cosmet Sci</addtitle><date>2016-08</date><risdate>2016</risdate><volume>38</volume><issue>4</issue><spage>364</spage><epage>374</epage><pages>364-374</pages><issn>0142-5463</issn><eissn>1468-2494</eissn><coden>IJCMDW</coden><abstract>Objective
In this study, the effect of different cosmetic matrices on the release profile and odour intensity of the fragrance O. majorana was investigated for the first time.
Methods
The fragrance compounds of O. majorana were extracted by supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE‐CO2) at 40°C and two operating pressures (8.5 and 10 MPa), and their chemical profiles were assessed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector coupled with mass spectrometry (GC‐FID/MS). Lastly, the fragrance compounds were incorporated into three cosmetic matrices (glycerine, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion) to assess their release and odour profiles over time using dynamic headspace (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS and Odour Value concept, respectively.
Results
The SFE‐CO2 enabled recovering extracts with the pleasant scent of the living plant, and the increment of pressure induced an increase on the extraction yield. GC‐FID/MS analyses revealed that oxygen‐containing monoterpenes was the principal group of components identified in both SFE‐CO2 extracts. The fragrance compounds were more retained in dipropylene glycol, and the major deviations from the original odour intensity (control) were observed in the presence of dipropylene glycol and skin lotion.
Conclusion
The hydrophilic character of the cosmetic matrices strongly influenced the release of the fragrance compounds, thus affecting the odour profile of the studied mixtures.
Résumé
Objectif
Dans cette étude, l'effet de différentes matrices cosmétiques sur le profil de libération et de l'intensité de l'odeur du parfum O. majorana a été étudié pour la première fois.
Methodes
Les composés parfumés de O. majorana ont été extraits par extraction de fluide supercritique utilisant le dioxyde de carbone (SFE‐CO2) à 40°C et à deux pressions de fonctionnement (8.5 et 10 MPa), et leurs profils chimiques ont été évalués par chromatographie en phase gazeuse avec détecteur à ionisation de flamme couplée à la spectrométrie de masse (GC‐FID/MS). Enfin, les composés de parfum ont été incorporés dans trois matrices cosmétiques (glycérine, le dipropylèneglycol et lotion pour la peau) afin d’évaluer leurs profils de libération et d'odeur dans le temps en utilisant le headspace dynamique (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS et Odour Value concept, respectivement.
Résultats
Le SFE‐CO2 a permis la récupération d'extraits avec l'agréable parfum de la plante vivante, et l'augmentation de la pression induit une augmentation du rendement d'extraction. L'analyse GC‐FID/MS a révélé que les monoterpènes contenant de l'oxygène étaient le principal groupe de composants identifiés dans les deux extraits SFE‐CO2. Les composés de parfum sont plus conservés dans le dipropylène glycol; les écarts majeurs par rapport à l'intensité de l'odeur d'origine (témoin) ont été observés en présence de dipropylène glycol et dans la lotion pour la peau.
Conclusion
Le caractère hydrophile des matrices cosmétiques influence fortement la libération des composés parfumés affectant ainsi le profil de l'odeur des mélanges étudiés.
The release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L. is strongly influenced by the hydrophilic character of the studied cosmetic matrices: glycerin, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion.</abstract><cop>England</cop><pub>Blackwell Publishing Ltd</pub><pmid>26611174</pmid><doi>10.1111/ics.12297</doi><tpages>11</tpages><oa>free_for_read</oa></addata></record> |
| fulltext | fulltext |
| identifier | ISSN: 0142-5463 |
| ispartof | International journal of cosmetic science, 2016-08, Vol.38 (4), p.364-374 |
| issn | 0142-5463 1468-2494 |
| language | eng |
| recordid | cdi_proquest_miscellaneous_1803793609 |
| source | Wiley-Blackwell Read & Publish Collection |
| subjects | Carbon dioxide Carbon Dioxide - chemistry Chromatography, Gas Chromatography, Supercritical Fluid cosmetic solvents Cosmetics Cosmetics industry fragrance compounds Gas chromatography headspace profile Ionization Mass Spectrometry Monoterpenes Odorants Odors odour value concept Oils, Volatile - chemistry Origanum - chemistry Plant Extracts - chemistry topical formulation VOCs Volatile organic compounds |
| title | Effect of cosmetic matrices on the release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L |
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