Nonlinear sharpening during superposition of surface waves

Two-dimensional direct wave model is used for demonstration of the role of reversible interactions which probably is the main process leading to breaking. One-dimensional model was used for performing of thousands of exact short-term simulations of evolution of two superposed wave trains with differ...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Ocean dynamics 2016-08, Vol.66 (8), p.931-937
Main Authors: Chalikov, Dmitry, Babanin, Alexander V.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Atmospheric Sciences
Earth and Environmental Science
Earth Sciences
Fluid- and Aerodynamics
Geophysics/Geodesy
Marine
Monitoring/Environmental Analysis
Ocean waves
Oceanography
Surface waves
Wave crest
Wave power
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Summary:Two-dimensional direct wave model is used for demonstration of the role of reversible interactions which probably is the main process leading to breaking. One-dimensional model was used for performing of thousands of exact short-term simulations of evolution of two superposed wave trains with different steepness, and wavenumbers were performed to investigate the effect of wave crests merging. Nonlinear sharpening of the merging crests is demonstrated. It is suggested that such effect may be responsible for appearance of the typical sharp crests of surface waves, as well as for wave breaking.
ISSN:1616-7341
1616-7228
DOI:10.1007/s10236-016-0965-8