Modeling wave runup with depth-integrated equations

In this paper, a moving boundary technique is developed to investigate wave runup and rundown with depth-integrated equations. Highly nonlinear and weakly dispersive equations are solved using a high-order finite difference scheme. An eddy viscosity model is adopted for wave breaking so as to invest...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2002-07, Vol.46 (2), p.89-107
Main Authors: Lynett, Patrick J., Wu, Tso-Ren, Liu, Philip L.-F.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Boussinesq equations
Brackish
Breaking waves
Earth, ocean, space
Exact sciences and technology
External geophysics
Freshwater
Marine
Other topics
Physics of the oceans
Wave runup
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Summary:In this paper, a moving boundary technique is developed to investigate wave runup and rundown with depth-integrated equations. Highly nonlinear and weakly dispersive equations are solved using a high-order finite difference scheme. An eddy viscosity model is adopted for wave breaking so as to investigate breaking wave runup. The moving boundary technique utilizes linear extrapolation through the wet–dry boundary and into the dry region. Nonbreaking and breaking solitary wave runup is accurately predicted by the proposed model, yielding a validation of both the wave breaking parameterization and the moving boundary technique. Two-dimensional wave runup in a parabolic basin and around a conical island is investigated, and agreement with published data is excellent. Finally, the propagation and runup of a solitary wave in a trapezoidal channel is examined.
ISSN:0378-3839
1872-7379
DOI:10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00043-1