Are breaking waves, bores, surges and jumps the same flow?

• Published in: Environmental fluid mechanics (Dordrecht, Netherlands : 2001) Netherlands : 2001), 2017-02, Vol.17 (1), p.47-77
• Main Authors: Lubin, Pierre, Chanson, Hubert
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Analysis; Bubbles; Classical Mechanics; Earth and Environmental Science; Earth Sciences; Energy dissipation; Environmental Physics; Fluid mechanics; Hydrodynamics; Hydrogeology; Hydrology/Water Resources; Mathematical models; Ocean waves; Oceanography; Original Article; Shallow water; Studies; Surf; Tidal bores; Turbulence
• ISSN: 1567-7419; 1573-1510
• DOI: 10.1007/s10652-016-9475-y

The flow structure in the aerated region of the roller generated by breaking waves remains a great challenge to study, with large quantities of entrained air and turbulence interactions making it very difficult to investigate in details. A number of analogies were proposed between breaking waves in deep or shallow water, tidal bores and hydraulic jumps. Many numerical models used to simulate waves in the surf zone do not implicitly simulate the breaking process of the waves, but are required to parameterise the wave-breaking effects, thus relying on experimental data. Analogies are also assumed to quantify the roller dynamics and the energy dissipation. The scope of this paper is to review the different analogies proposed in the literature and to discuss current practices. A thorough survey is offered and a discussion is developed an aimed at improving the use of possible breaking proxies. The most recent data are revisited and scrutinised for the use of most advanced numerical models to educe the surf zone hydrodynamics. In particular, the roller dynamics and geometrical characteristics are discussed. An open discussion is proposed to explore the actual practices and propose perspectives based on the most appropriate analogy, namely the tidal bore.