Evaluation of skin firmness by the DynaSKIN, a novel non‐contact compression device, and its use in revealing the efficacy of a skincare regimen featuring a novel anti‐ageing ingredient, acetyl aspartic acid

• Published in: Skin research and technology 2017-05, Vol.23 (2), p.155-168
• Main Authors: Kearney, E. M., Messaraa, C., Grennan, G., Koeller, G., Mavon, A., Merinville, E.
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: acetyl aspartic acid; Administration, Cutaneous; Adolescent; Adult; Age; age correlation; Aging; Aspartic Acid - administration & dosage; Compressive Strength - drug effects; Compressive Strength - physiology; Cutometer; DynaSKIN; Equipment Design; Equipment Failure Analysis; Female; Hardness - drug effects; Hardness - physiology; Hardness Tests - instrumentation; Humans; Middle Aged; Physical Stimulation - instrumentation; Physical Stimulation - methods; Reproducibility of Results; Sensitivity and Specificity; skin ageing; skin biomechanics; Skin Care - methods; Skin care products; Skin Cream - administration & dosage; Skin Physiological Phenomena - drug effects; Treatment Outcome; Young Adult
• ISSN: 0909-752X; 1600-0846
• DOI: 10.1111/srt.12314

Background One of the key strategies for anti‐ageing in the cosmetics industry today is to target the structural changes responsible for ptosis of the skin, given its impact on age perception. Several objective and non‐invasive methods are available to characterise the biomechanical properties of the skin, which are operator‐dependent, involving skin contact and providing single‐dimensional numerical descriptions of skin behaviour. The research introduces the DynaSKIN, a device using non‐contact mechanical pressure in combination with fringe projection to quantify and visualise the skin response in 3‐dimensions. We examine the age correlation of the measurements, how they compare with the Cutometer®, and measure skin dynamics following application of a skincare regimen containing established anti‐ageing ingredients. Methods DynaSKIN and Cutometer® measurements were made on the cheek of 80 Caucasian women (18–64 years). DynaSKIN volume, mean depth and maximum depth parameters were correlated with age and 15 Cutometer® parameters. Subsequently, the firming efficacy of a skincare regimen featuring acetyl aspartic acid (AAA) and a peptide complex was examined in a cohort of 41 volunteers. Results DynaSKIN volume, mean depth and maximum depth parameters correlate with age and the Cutometer® parameters that are associated with the skin relaxation phase (R1, R2, R4, R5, R7 and F3). Furthermore, the DynaSKIN captured significant improvements in skin firmness delivered by the skincare regimen. Conclusion The DynaSKIN is a novel device capable of capturing skin biomechanics at a high level of specificity and successfully detected the firming properties of a skincare regimen. Its independent measuring principle, consumer relevance and skin firmness 3D visualisation capabilities bring objectivity and novelty to product efficacy substantiation evaluation.