Beach Wizard: Nearshore bathymetry estimation through assimilation of model computations and remote observations

• Published in: Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2008-12, Vol.55 (12), p.1016-1027
• Main Authors: van Dongeren, Ap, Plant, Nathaniel, Cohen, Anna, Roelvink, Dano, Haller, Merrick C., Catalán, Patricio
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Argus; Bathymetry; Beach Wizard; Coastal monitoring; Coastal morphology; Data assimilation; Delft3D; Earth sciences; Earth, ocean, space; Engineering and environment geology. Geothermics; Engineering geology; Exact sciences and technology; Geomorphology, landform evolution; Marine and continental quaternary; Marine radar; Morphodynamic models; Remote sensing; Surficial geology; Video
• ISSN: 0378-3839; 1872-7379
• DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.04.011

A data–model assimilation method (called “Beach Wizard”) is presented with which the nearshore subtidal bathymetry can be accurately estimated based on video-derived observations of wave roller dissipation and variation of the intertidal shoreline, and/or radar-derived observations of wave celerity. Using many consecutive images, these observed properties are compared with numerical model results, and through a simple, optimal least-squares estimator approach the estimated bathymetry is adjusted gradually for each image in order to improve the fit between model output and observations. The key advantages of the technique are that it is based on multiple sources of information (i.e., different remote sensors and/or data products), depends on only a few free parameters (to which the model results are insensitive), and shows good skill. Herein, the technique is applied to a synthetic case and two sets of field data from sites at Duck, NC (USA) and Egmond (The Netherlands). The method, which may be extended with observations of other properties from other sources than the three described in this paper, can deliver coastal state information (i.e., simultaneous updates of bathymetry, waves, and currents) with high temporal and spatial resolution and can be used in conjunction with or instead of in-situ measured data.