Crocin, a natural molecule with potentially beneficial effects against skin ageing

• Published in: International journal of cosmetic science 2018-08, Vol.40 (4), p.388-400
• Main Authors: Fagot, D., Pham, D. M., Laboureau, J., Planel, E., Guerin, L., Nègre, C., Donovan, M., Bernard, B. A.
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: ageing; Aging; Aging (natural); Antioxidants; Carotenoids - pharmacology; Cell Membrane - metabolism; Cells, Cultured; crocin; Enzyme-Linked Immunosorbent Assay; Fibroblasts; Fibroblasts - cytology; Fibroblasts - metabolism; Gene expression; Genes; glycobiology; Glycosylation; Humans; Inflammation; Inflammation Mediators - metabolism; Keratinocytes; Keratinocytes - cytology; Keratinocytes - metabolism; lectin; Oligonucleotide Array Sequence Analysis; Oxidative stress; Oxidative Stress - drug effects; Peroxidation; Polysaccharides - metabolism; Protected species; Proteins; Reactive oxygen species; Reactive Oxygen Species - metabolism; Receptors; Skin; Skin - cytology; Skin - drug effects; Skin - metabolism; Skin Aging - drug effects; Squalene
• ISSN: 0142-5463; 1468-2494
• DOI: 10.1111/ics.12472

Objective Oxidative stress and low‐grade chronic inflammation stand out as key features of physiological skin ageing. The aim of this study was to examine in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) grown in vitro, the antioxidant and anti‐inflammatory properties of crocin, a carotenoid glycoside responsible for the colour of saffron. Moreover, considering the newly emerging field of skin glycobiology and the presence of two gentiobiosyl moieties in crocin, the effect of crocin on NHEK glycosylation pathways was for the first time investigated. Methods The anti‐inflammatory and antioxidant activities of crocin were evaluated by in vitro assays of antioxidation activities, ELISA and microarray analysis. The effect of crocin on keratinocyte glycobiology was evaluated by proprietary GLYcoDiag lectin technologies and microarray analysis. Results Crocin is endowed with antioxidant potential against reactive oxygen species, protects squalene against UVA‐induced peroxidation and prevents the release of inflammatory mediators. The expression of NF‐kB‐related genes and glycosylation‐related genes is modulated in the presence of crocin. Conclusion Results could designate this molecule as a promising skin ageing prevention cosmetic agent. Of note, some of these effects could be mediated by protein O‐glycosylation and interaction of crocin with osidic receptors of keratinocytes. Résumé Objectifs Le stress oxydatif et l'inflammation chronique de bas grade sont des caractéristiques principales du vieillissement physiologique de la peau. Le but de cette étude était d'examiner dans les kératinocytes épidermiques humains normaux (NHEK) et les fibroblastes dermiques humains (HDF) cultivés in vitro, les propriétés antioxydantes et anti‐inflammatoires de la crocine, un glycoside de caroténoïde responsable de la couleur du safran. En outre, si l'on considère le domaine émergeant de la glycobiologie de la peau et la présence de deux portions de gentiobiosyl sur la crocine, l'effet de la crocine sur les voies de glycosylation des NHEKs a été pour la première fois étudiée. Methodes Les activités anti‐inflammatoires et anti‐oxydantes de la crocine ont été évaluées dans des tests in vitro d'activités anti‐oxydantes, des tests Elisa et une analyse sur puces à ADN. L'effet de la crocine sur la glycobiologie des kératinocytes a été évaluée par des technologies exclusives à GLYcoDiag, de fixation de lectines et analyse en plaque multipuits. Resulta