Lichen extracts as raw materials in perfumery. Part 2: treemoss

This is a comprehensive review of extracts from the lichen Pseudevernia furfuracea (treemoss) that are used in the fragrance industry. Qualitative and quantitative analytical aspects are critically reviewed and the results are compared to those of the related oakmoss extracts. It is shown that more...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Flavour and fragrance journal 2009-05, Vol.24 (3), p.105-116
Main Authors: Joulain, Daniel, Tabacchi, Raphaël
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Applied sciences
Chemical industry and chemicals
contact allergy
depsides
Essential oils, perfumes
Exact sciences and technology
fragrances
Pinus
Pseudevernia furfuracea
resin acids
steroids
treemoss
triterpenes
Washing products. Cosmetics and toiletries. Perfumes
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Summary:This is a comprehensive review of extracts from the lichen Pseudevernia furfuracea (treemoss) that are used in the fragrance industry. Qualitative and quantitative analytical aspects are critically reviewed and the results are compared to those of the related oakmoss extracts. It is shown that more than 90 constituents have been identified so far in treemoss extracts, including 42 depsides, depsidones or depside-derived compounds, and 42 triterpenes or steroids. Constituents of certain host trees, mainly Pinus species, generate specific analytical and toxicological issues which need to be considered in addition to those related to the known degradation products of lichen compounds. A new classification of lichen extracts used as raw materials in fragrance compounding is proposed. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
ISSN:0882-5734
1099-1026
DOI:10.1002/ffj.1923