Change in geometric entropy with repeated ascents in rock climbing

Lower geometric entropy (GE) could represent more economical movement in rock climbing. Repetition of a climbing route decreases energy expenditure (EE), however, association with changes in GE has not been studied. The purpose of this study was to observe changes in GE with repetition of a climbing...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Sports biomechanics 2021-11, Vol.20 (8), p.1031-1040
Main Authors: Watts, Phillip B., Espan͂a-Romero, Vanesa, Ostrowski, Megan L., Jensen, Randall L.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Climbing
Economy
Energy expenditure
Entropy
Familiarity
geometric entropy
Repetition
Rock climbing
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Summary:Lower geometric entropy (GE) could represent more economical movement in rock climbing. Repetition of a climbing route decreases energy expenditure (EE), however, association with changes in GE has not been studied. The purpose of this study was to observe changes in GE with repetition of a climbing route relative to changes in EE. Nine climbers completed nine ascents each, one week apart, on an indoor climbing structure. Digital video was recorded at 30 Hz and a marker point was digitised as an estimate of a climber's centre of mass position (CM E ). The displacement of CM E was expressed as the length of the line of motion (LM). GE was calculated as ln((2 x LM)/CH)) where CH is the value of the convex hull about the LM. Indirect energy expenditure (EE CLM ) was calculated from expired air by the Weir method. Data were analysed for ascents 1 (A1), 3 (A3), 6 (A6) and 9 (A9) and compared via repeated measures ANOVA. GE was significantly different for A1 vs A6 and A9 (p < 0.05) and not different for other comparisons. GE was correlated with EE CLM ; r = 0.67 (p < 0.01). Climbers reduce geometric entropy with route familiarity and the lower entropy may be associated with lower energy expenditure.
ISSN:1476-3141
1752-6116
DOI:10.1080/14763141.2019.1635636