The involvement of protein denaturing activity in the effect of surfactants on skin barrier function

• Published in: Skin research and technology 2021-03, Vol.27 (2), p.241-248
• Main Authors: Kubota, Koji, Okasaka, Mana, Kano, Asami, Takata, Sadaki
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: adsorption property; alkyl structure; Amino acids; amino acid‐base surfactant; Biopolymer denaturation; Correlation analysis; counter ion; Ion sources; ionic source; keratinocyte intercellular lipids; Lipids; Nonionic surfactants; Pollutants; Protein denaturation; Proteins; Skin; Surfactants
• ISSN: 0909-752X; 1600-0846
• DOI: 10.1111/srt.12939

Background/purpose Detailed information on the mechanism by which surfactants affect the skin barrier function is still scarce. We investigated the contribution of protein denaturation to the effect of surfactants on barrier function. Methods The Transmission Index method, which evaluates the actual effect of surfactants on barrier function, was combined with a microplate assay measuring protein denaturation activity. The correlation between the TI value and the reciprocal of the median effect concentration (1/EC50) was analyzed for 19 surfactants. The contribution of protein denaturation to the effect of surfactants was discussed based on the 1/EC50 per TI value. Results A few surfactants showed high TI value. Nonionic surfactants had no effect. The EC50 varied without certain trend. For amino acid‐based surfactants, there was a gradual inverse correlation between the TI value and the 1/EC50. Conclusion The difference in the alkyl structure and the ion source affected the skin barrier function. Protein denaturing activity of the surfactant was not a critical factor. This suggests that the effect on intercellular lipids was the major factor. However, the magnitude of the contribution of protein denaturation activity varied depending on the surfactant, suggesting that each surfactant has a different mechanism of influence on skin barrier function.