Assessment of the anti‐hair loss potential of Camellia japonica fruit shell extract in vitro

• Published in: International journal of cosmetic science 2023-04, Vol.45 (2), p.155-165
• Main Authors: You, Jiyoung, Woo, Jieun, Roh, Kyung‐Baeg, Ryu, Dehun, Jang, Youngsu, Cho, Eunae, Park, Deokhoon, Jung, Eunsun
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Alopecia; Assaying; Biological activity; Camellia japonica; Camellia japonica fruit shell; Cell culture; Cell growth; Cell proliferation; Cyclin D1; dermal papilla cells; Dihydrotestosterone; Dihydrotestosterone - adverse effects; Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay; Fruit; Fruits; Galactosidase; Gallic acid; Hair; hair growth; Hair loss; High-performance liquid chromatography; Hydrogen peroxide; Liquid chromatography; Mitigation; Myc protein; Oxidative stress; Oxidoreductases; Plant Extracts - pharmacology; Protocatechuic acid; Reactive Oxygen Species; Reductases; Scavenging; Vascular endothelial growth factor; Wnt protein
• ISSN: 0142-5463; 1468-2494
• DOI: 10.1111/ics.12827

Objective Hair loss is caused by various factors. Impacts of these factors are often overlapped and intensified. Currently, mitigation of hair loss is being studied by proliferating dermal papilla cells (DPCs) and inhibiting deleterious factors such as dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and oxidative stress on hair growth. Camellia japonica (C. japonica) fruit shell is a discarded part. Its biological activity remains to be elucidated. In this study, we investigated the capacity of C. japonica fruit shell extract (CJFSE) for hair loss mitigation. Methods MTT assay, spheroid culture and quantitative RT‐PCR were performed to observe the proliferative effect of CJFSE on hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs). Effects of CJFSE on DHT‐induced hair loss were confirmed by Dkk‐1 ELISA, β‐galactosidase (β‐gal) and 5α‐reductase activity assay. In addition, effects of CJFSE on oxidative stress were confirmed through DPPH and ROS production assays. Results CJFSE increased the proliferation and spheroid size of HFDPCs. Expression levels of VEGF‐A, Wnt‐1, c‐Myc and Cyclin D1 were upregulated by CJFSE. CJFSE also suppressed 5α‐reductase activity and DHT‐induced decrease in cell proliferation, Dkk‐1 secretion and β‐gal activity. Moreover, CJFSE showed DPPH scavenging activity and ameliorated hydrogen peroxide‐induced ROS production and β‐gal activity. Finally, gallic acid and protocatechuic acid were observed in CJFSE through HPLC analysis. Conclusion CJFSE has the potential to alleviate hair loss by promoting hair cell growth and suppressing effects of DHT and oxidative stress on hair. Résumé Objectif Divers facteurs sont responsables de la perte de cheveux. Souvent, les conséquences de ces facteurs se superposent et s’intensifient. Actuellement, on étudie comment atténuer la perte de cheveux en faisant proliférer les cellules de la papille dermique (DPC) et en inhibant les facteurs délétères tels que la dihydrotestostérone (DHT) et le stress oxydatif sur la croissance des cheveux. La coque du fruit du Camélia du Japon (Camelia japonica) est habituellement rejetée. Son utilité biologique reste à élucider. Dans cette étude, nous avons étudié la capacité de l'extrait de la coque du fruit du Camélia du Japon (CJFSE) dans la mitigation de la perte de cheveux. Méthodes Un test MTT, une culture de sphéroïdes et une RT‐PCR Quantitative ont été effectués pour observer la prolifération de CJFSE sur les cellules de la papille dermique du follicule pileux (HFDPC). Les effets du CJFSE s