Enzymatically modified isoquercitrin and its protective effects against photoaging: In-vitro and clinical studies

This research examines the anti-aging potential of the flavonoid derivative of isoquercitrin known as enzymatically modified isoquercitrin (EMIQ). Initial HPLC analyses showed that EMIQ used in the study contained 1-12 glucosides and 10.7% pentahydroxyflavonoids, promising potent antioxidant propert...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Photochemistry and photobiology 2024-09, Vol.100 (5), p.1475-1488
Main Authors: Bai, Xue-Dong, Fei, Wei-Cheng, Liu, Yu-Chen, Yang, Sheng-Ping
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Collagen
Cosmetics
Dermis
Epidermis
Flavonoids
Glucosides
Liquid chromatography
Physiological effects
Radiation damage
Skin
Smad protein
Thickness
Ultraviolet radiation
Water loss
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Summary:This research examines the anti-aging potential of the flavonoid derivative of isoquercitrin known as enzymatically modified isoquercitrin (EMIQ). Initial HPLC analyses showed that EMIQ used in the study contained 1-12 glucosides and 10.7% pentahydroxyflavonoids, promising potent antioxidant properties. In subsequent in-vitro studies with UVA-exposed human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa), EMIQ demonstrated protective properties by reducing collagen damage. It modulated both the TGFβ/Smad pathway and the MMP1 pathway, contributing to collagen preservation. This protective effect was further confirmed using the T-Skin™ model, a reconstructed full-thickness human skin model, which illustrated that EMIQ could defend the physiological structures of both the epidermis and dermis against UV radiation. A 28-day clinical trial with 30 volunteers aged 31-55 years highlighted EMIQ's effectiveness. Participants using EMIQ-containing Essence displayed reduced facial trans-epidermal water loss and skin roughness, alongside improved skin elasticity. This study emphasizes EMIQ's potential as an anti-photoaging ingredient in cosmetics, warranting further research. The findings pave the way for developing innovative skincare products addressing photoaging effects.
ISSN:0031-8655
1751-1097
1751-1097
DOI:10.1111/php.13891