Mitigation of ultraviolet-induced erythema and inflammation by para-hydroxycinnamic acid in human skin

• Published in: International journal of cosmetic science 2024-08
• Main Authors: Janson, William P, Breyfogle, Laurie E, Bierman, John C, Chew, Zhi Yan, Ehrman, Matthew C, Oblong, John E
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• ISSN: 0142-5463; 1468-2494; 1468-2494
• DOI: 10.1111/ics.13002

To evaluate whether p-hydroxycinnamic acid (pHCA) alone and in combination with niacinamide (Nam) can mitigate UV-induced erythema, barrier disruption, and inflammation. Three independent placebo-controlled double-blinded studies were conducted on female panellists who were pretreated on sites on their backs for 2 weeks with skin care formulations which contained 0.3% or 1% pHCA with 5% Nam, 1% pHCA alone, 1.8% octinoxate, or control formula. Treated sites were then exposed to 1.5 minimal erythemal dose (MED) solar simulated radiation (SSR) and had chromameter and expert grading measures for erythema, barrier integrity via TEWL, and the skin surface IL-1RA/IL-1α inflammatory biomarkers isolated from D-Squame tapes. Across the three independent studies, pHCA alone or in combination with Nam showed a significant mitigation of UV-induced erythema, barrier disruption, and levels of the surface inflammatory biomarkers IL-1RA/IL-1α. The cinnamate analogue Octinoxate did not replicate the effects of pHCA. The study results show that pHCA alone or in combination with Nam can mitigate UV-induced damage to skin. These include mitigation of UV-induced erythema as measured by instrument and expert grade visualization. Additionally, pHCA with Nam protected damage to the barrier and reduced the induction of the SASP-related surface inflammatory biomarker IL-1RA/IL-1α. The inability of Octinoxate to have any protective effect and the detection of low levels of pHCA on skin surface after 24 h of application supports that these effects are based on a biological response to pHCA. These findings add to the body of evidence that pHCA alone or in combination with Nam can enhance the skin's biological response to UV-induced damage. This supports pHCA can potentially impact aging and senescence, thereby maintain skin's functionality and appearance.