Field observations of nearshore bar formation

The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Earth surface processes and landforms 2008-06, Vol.33 (7), p.1021-1032
Main Authors: Aagaard, Troels, Kroon, Aart, Hughes, Michael G., Greenwood, Brian
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Bgi / Prodig
Coastal geomorphology
Geomorphology
morphodynamics
nearshore bars
Physical geography
sediment transport
surf zone
undertow
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Summary:The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross‐shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross‐shore gradients in offshore‐directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
ISSN:0197-9337
1096-9837
DOI:10.1002/esp.1599