In vivo comparison of various liposome formulations for cosmetic application

• Published in: International journal of pharmaceutics 2005-05, Vol.296 (1), p.44-54
• Main Authors: Betz, Gabriele, Aeppli, Angela, Menshutina, Natalia, Leuenberger, Hans
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Adult; Analysis of Variance; Chemistry, Pharmaceutical; Cosmetics - administration & dosage; Cosmetics - chemistry; Cosmetics - pharmacokinetics; Female; Humans; In vivo comparison; Liposomes; Liposomes - administration & dosage; Liposomes - chemistry; Liposomes - pharmacokinetics; Male; Skin - drug effects; Skin - metabolism; Skin aging; Skin barrier; Skin hydration; Transepidermal water loss
• ISSN: 0378-5173; 1873-3476
• DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2005.02.032

The interaction of liposome formulations, prepared with phospholipids of different origins (egg and soya), with skin were compared in terms of their effects on skin water content, skin barrier function, and skin elasticity. Short-term effect of four different liposome formulations and two references during 3.5 h was investigated non-occlusively on the volar side of the forearm of 10 volunteers, ranging in age from 24 to 32 years. Liposomes composed of different phospholipids showed differing effects on skin humidity. The maximal effect was achieved within 30 min and constant values were reached after 1.5 h for all formulations, however values remained significantly higher than without treatment ( p < 0.05) during the whole application time. The best results were obtained with liposome formulations prepared from egg phospholipids, which exhibited a 1.5-fold increase in skin water content ( p < 0.05), whereas liposome formulations prepared from soya phospholipids showed no advantage compared to the references. Skin barrier function showed greatest influence within 30 min after application and remained constant after 1.5 h for all formulations. Within the liposome formulations, egg phospholipids showed the highest transepidermal water loss values during the first 30 min, representing the strongest interactions with the skin barrier function, whereas for the other liposome formulations lower transepidermal water loss values were measured. Skin elasticity and tiring effect of the skin was not influenced by any of the formulations, due to the young skin tested. Long-term effect of two different liposome formulations mixed with base cream DAC in two different concentrations during 14 days was investigated non-occlusively on the volar side of the forearm of 10 volunteers, ranging in age from 20 to 25 years. Skin water content was measured daily and the results showed that skin humidity was increased significantly ( p < 0.05) for the formulation containing 20% egg phospholipids during 6 days. Liposome formulations prepared with egg phospholipids showed significantly higher ( p < 0.01) hydration effects during 3.5 h of application on human skin compared with liposome formulations prepared with soya phospholipids.