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A Zn(II)-glycine complex suppresses UVB-induced melanin production by stimulating metallothionein expression

Synopsis Oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin, induces the secretion of melanocyte growth and activating factors from keratinocytes, which results in the formation of cutaneous hyper‐pigmentation. Thus, increasing the anti‐oxidativ...

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Published in:International journal of cosmetic science 2008-04, Vol.30 (2), p.105-112
Main Authors: Ochiai, Y., Kaburagi, S., Okano, Y., Masaki, H., Ichihashi, M., Funasaka, Y., Sakurai, H.
Format: Article
Language:English
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Summary:Synopsis Oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the skin, induces the secretion of melanocyte growth and activating factors from keratinocytes, which results in the formation of cutaneous hyper‐pigmentation. Thus, increasing the anti‐oxidative ability of skin cells is expected to be a good strategy for skin‐lightening cosmetics. Metallothionein (MT) is one of the stress‐induced proteins and is known to exhibit a strong anti‐oxidative property. We previously reported that a zinc(II) complex with glycine (Zn(II)(Gly)2) effectively induces MT expression in cultured human keratinocytes. To determine its potential as a new skin lightening active, we examined whether Zn(II)(Gly)2 regulates the release of melanocyte‐activating factors from UVB‐irradiated keratinocytes and affects melanin production in a reconstructed human epidermal equivalent. Conditioned medium from UVB‐irradiated keratinocytes accelerated melanocyte proliferation to 110%, and that increase could be prevented by pre‐treatment with Zn(II)(Gly)2. In addition, Zn(II)(Gly)2 significantly reduced both the production of prostaglandin E2 and proopiomelanocortin expression in UVB‐irradiated keratinocytes. Zn(II)(Gly)2 also decreased melanin production in a reconstructed human epidermal equivalent. These results indicate that MT‐induction in the epidermis effectively up‐regulates tolerance against oxidative stress and inhibits the secretion of melanocyte growth and activating factors from keratinocytes. Thus, Zn(II)(Gly)2 is a good candidate as a new skin‐lightening active. Résumé Le stress oxydatif provoqué par les radiations ultra‐violettes (UV) génère des espèces oxygénées réactives (ROS) dans la peau et induit la croissance des mélanocytes et la sécrétion par les kératinocytes de facteurs d’activation, provoquant la formation de l’hyperpigmentation cutanée. On peut alors penser qu’accroître les propriétés anti‐oxydantes des cellules cutanées sera une bonne stratégie pour l’obtention des produits de blanchiment cutané cosmétique. La métallothionéine (MT) est une des protéines induite par ce stress et elle est connue pour posséder de fortes propriétés anti‐oxydantes. Nous avons précédemment montré que les complexes de Zinc (II) avec la glycine (Zn (II) (Gly)2) provoquent efficacement l’expression de la MT dans des cultures de kératinocytes humains. Afin de déterminer son potentiel en tant que nouvel actif de produit de blanchiment cutané, nous
ISSN:0142-5463
1468-2494
DOI:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00423.x