WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Geo-marine letters 2010-10, Vol.30 (5), p.549-560
Main Authors: Le Roux, Jacobus P., Demirbilek, Zeki, Brodalka, Marysia, Flemming, Burghard W.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Bed load
Bottom sediments
Boundary layers
Deep water
Earth and Environmental Science
Earth Sciences
Fluid dynamics
Geology
Marine
Ocean bottom
Oceanography
Sediments
Shallow water
Technical Paper
Velocity
Water depth
Water levels
Wave crest
Wind speed
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Summary:The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle velocities for any water depth, bottom slope, and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under both the wave crest and the trough, using the horizontal water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer. The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC, which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments, the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly program intended for sedimentologists, coastal engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists. It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies, and can also serve as an educational tool.
ISSN:0276-0460
1432-1157
DOI:10.1007/s00367-010-0195-x