A note on wave-induced set-up by obliquely incident waves

Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the break...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Coastal engineering (Amsterdam) 2011-08, Vol.58 (8), p.812-814
Main Authors: Janssen, T.T., Jones, I.S.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Approximation
Circulation
Coastal engineering
Earth sciences
Earth, ocean, space
Exact sciences and technology
Geomorphology, landform evolution
Incident waves
Marine and continental quaternary
Mathematical analysis
Mathematical models
Oblique incidence
Offshore
Offshore structures
Radiation stress
Surficial geology
Wave-induced set-up
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Summary:Water level variations due to obliquely incident, shoaling and breaking waves on a plane sloping beach were discussed recently by Hsu et al. (Coastal Engineering, 53, 865–877, 2006). An inconsistency in this work with respect to the set-down, and its implications to circulation offshore of the breakpoint, was pointed out by Shi and Kirby (Coastal Engineering, 55, 1246 – 1249, 2008). Here we extend that discussion to include the surfzone momentum balance and wave-induced set-up. We discuss some remaining inconsistencies in the approximation of the surfzone momentum balance, derive and present a consistent approximation, and validate the new approximation through numerical comparison to a more exact model.
ISSN:0378-3839
1872-7379
DOI:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.04.004