From consistent subjective assessment of skin sensitivity severity to its accurate objective scoring

• Published in: Skin research and technology 2024-03, Vol.30 (3), p.e13635-n/a
• Main Authors: Rengot, Juliette, Meyer, Imke, Chevrot, Nathalie, Maire, Marielle Le, Cherel, Marie, Prestat‐Marquis, Elodie, Stuhlmann, Dominik
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: artificial intelligence; Cosmetics; Evaluation; Humans; Hyperspectral imaging; Image quality; index; instrumental evaluation; multi‐layer perceptron; Neural networks; Original; Placebos; questionnaire; Questionnaires; sensitive skin; Sensitivity analysis; Skin Physiological Phenomena; Subjective assessment
• ISSN: 0909-752X; 1600-0846
• DOI: 10.1111/srt.13635

Background Sensitive skin (SenS) is a syndrome leading to unpleasant sensations with little visible signs. Grading its severity generally relies on questionnaires or subjective ratings. Materials and methods The SenS status of 183 subjects was determined by trained assessors. Answers from a four‐item questionnaire were converted into numerical scores, leading to a 0–15 SenS index that was asked twice or thrice. Parameters from hyperspectral images were used as input for a multi‐layer perceptron (MLP) neural network to predict the four‐item questionnaire score of subjects. The resulting model was used to evaluate the soothing effect of a cosmetic cream applied to one hemiface, comparing it to that of a placebo applied to the other hemiface. Results The four‐item questionnaire score accurately predicts SenS assessors’ classification (92.7%) while providing insight into SenS severity. Most subjects providing repeatable replies are non‐SenS, but accepting some variability in answers enables identifying subjects with consistent replies encompassing a majority of SenS subjects. The MLP neural network model predicts the SenS score of subjects with consistent replies from full‐face hyperspectral images (R2Validation set = 0.969). A similar quality is obtained with hemiface images. Comparing the effect of applying a soothing cosmetic to that of a placebo revealed that subjects with the highest instrumental index (> 5) show significant SenS improvement. Conclusion A four‐item questionnaire enables calculating a SenS index grading its severity. Objective evaluation using hyperspectral images with an MLP neural network accurately predicts SenS severity and its favourable evolution upon the application of a soothing cream.