Tank to Table: Hong Kong’s Wet Markets and the Geographies of Lively Commodification Beyond Companionship

• Published in: Annals of the American Association of Geographers 2024-04, Vol.114 (4), p.844-862
• Main Authors: Gerlofs, Ben A., Iaquinto, Benjamin Lucca, Poon, Kylie Yuet Ning, Tsang, Cathy Tung Yee
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• Subjects: Animals; Commodification; Consumers; Food consumption; Markets; Photography; Reconfiguration; Vendors; Videography
• ISSN: 2469-4452; 2469-4460
• DOI: 10.1080/24694452.2024.2304200

We argue for a radical reconfiguration of existing theorizations of the “lively commodity”—beings captured, cultivated, and traded for their very lives—on more inclusive terms. Specifically, we advocate the inclusion of animals intended for dietary consumption, in recognition of the demonstrable centrality of encounters between human beings in their role as consumers and the animals and animal parts offered for sale in Hong Kong’s many wet markets to the processes of commodification. Based on semistructured interviews with vendors and consumers (n = 86) and a variety of modes of ethnographic observation (including narrative, photography, and several forms of videography), we analyze three groups of practices and strategies for structuring and negotiating productive encounters (which we label provoking motion, stimulating appetite, and maintaining life) observed in twenty-seven different wet markets across Hong Kong between June and September 2022. Our analysis also suggests critical issues and directions for future research rooted in, at minimum, crucial differences in the scalar, temporal, ecological, and ethical dimensions of diverse processes of lively commodification.