Maison Félix and the Body Types of Its Clients, 1875–1900

In the crowded market of late nineteenth-century couture in Paris, how did a woman of means choose which design house to patronize, and in turn, how did the house distinguish itself to gain customers? Through a close study of the maison Félix, this article argues that one criterion was a considerati...

Full description

Saved in:
Bibliographic Details
Published in:West 86th 2019-03, Vol.26 (1), p.80-103
Main Author: Block, Elizabeth L.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
19th century
Body composition
Fashion designers
Human body
Womenswear
Online Access:Get full text
Tags: Add Tag
No Tags, Be the first to tag this record!
Description
Summary:In the crowded market of late nineteenth-century couture in Paris, how did a woman of means choose which design house to patronize, and in turn, how did the house distinguish itself to gain customers? Through a close study of the maison Félix, this article argues that one criterion was a consideration of body type. In competition with the House of Worth, Félix became known for specializing in a slim silhouette, but European and American women of all sizes—royalty, nobility, singers, and actresses among them—sought out Félix’s designs. By focusing on how the body was considered from both the production and consumption sides of Félix’s business, the article expands our understanding of how the firms were distinguished. The investigation uses material, visual, and textual evidence and deliberately treats the maison Félix as a fashion system, rather than positioning the founding designer as a unique or individual genius.
ISSN:2153-5531
2153-5558
DOI:10.1086/704647