The climbing protocol of the Swiss Alpine Club – an approximation of biological correlates?

• Published in: Swiss sports & exercise medicine 2018, Vol.66 (1)
• Format: Article
• Language: English
• ISSN: 2297-8712
• DOI: 10.34045/SSEM/2018/8

Introduction: Sport climbing is becoming more and more popular however, protocols for analyzing technique do rarely exist. One common tool in Switzerland is the standard climbing protocol of SAC, which is oriented at the standard movement of climbing allowing to rate individual technique. In this study interaction of blood lactate concentration and its interaction with technique scores were analyzed. Methods: 12 sportclimbers of good leisure sport level with regular climbing activity performed 3 previously unknown routes with difficulties of 6–, 6, 6+ (UIAA Scale) in a climbing hall. Before and immediately after climbing blood lactate concentration was measured: Technical skills for all routes were rated with technical protocol of standard movement developed by the Swiss Alpine Club. Results: Average values of blood lactate concentration increased in route 6– from 1.9 ± 0.6 mmol/l to 3 ± 1.1 mmol/l, in 6 from 2 ± 0.6 mmo/l to 3.4 ± 1.2 mmol/l, in 6+ from 2.2 ± 0.7 mmol/l to 4.4 ± 1.8 mmol/l. Rated technical skills continuously decreased with increasing difficulties of climbing routes with interindividual large differences. Discussion: Principally, the inverse decrease of technique scores to lactate concentration implies, that the tested protocol not only measures technical skills but also physiological components. Furthermore, the identified relationship of technique and strength implies a close relationship in climbing of these two components.