Characterization and Evaluation of Commercial Carboxymethyl Cellulose Potential as an Active Ingredient for Cosmetics

Carboxymethyl cellulose is the most used water-soluble cellulose with applications in industries such as food, cosmetics, and tissue engineering. However, due to a perceived lack of biological activity, carboxymethyl cellulose is mostly used as a structural element. As such, this work sought to inve...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Applied sciences 2022-07, Vol.12 (13), p.6560
Main Authors: Costa, Eduardo M., Pereira, Carla F., Ribeiro, Alessandra A., Casanova, Francisca, Freixo, Ricardo, Pintado, Manuela, Ramos, Oscar L.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Biocompatibility
Biological activity
Biological properties
carboxymethyl cellulose
Caustic soda
Cellulose
Collagen
Collagen (type I)
cosmeceutical
Cosmeceuticals
Cosmetics
Cytotoxicity
Ethanol
Fibroblasts
Food industry
Formulations
Immune response
immunomodulation
Inflammation
Inflammatory response
Ingredients
Interleukin 6
Interleukin 8
Metabolism
Moisture content
Morphology
Personal grooming
pro-collagen production
Rheology
Scanning electron microscopy
skin keratinocytes
skin normal fibroblasts
Sodium
Spectrum analysis
Structural members
Surfactants
Tissue engineering
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Summary:Carboxymethyl cellulose is the most used water-soluble cellulose with applications in industries such as food, cosmetics, and tissue engineering. However, due to a perceived lack of biological activity, carboxymethyl cellulose is mostly used as a structural element. As such, this work sought to investigate whether CMC possesses relevant biological properties that could grant it added value as a cosmeceutical ingredient in future skincare formulations. To that end, CMC samples (Mw between 471 and 322 kDa) skin cell cytotoxicity, impact upon pro-collagen I α I production, and inflammatory response were evaluated. Results showed that samples were not cytotoxic towards HaCat and HDFa up to 10 mg/mL while simultaneously promoting intracellular production of pro-collagen I α I up by 228% relative to the basal metabolism, which appeared to be related to the highest DS and Mw. Additionally, CMC samples modulated HaCat immune response as they decreased by ca. 1.4-fold IL-8 production and increased IL-6 levels by ca. five fold. Despite this increase, only two samples presented IL-6 levels similar to those of the inflammation control. Considering these results, CMC showed potential to be a more natural alternative to traditional bioactive cosmetic ingredients and, as it is capable of being a bioactive and structural ingredient, it may play a key role in future skincare formulations.
ISSN:2076-3417
2076-3417
DOI:10.3390/app12136560