Emollients for cosmetic formulations: Towards relationships between physico-chemical properties and sensory perceptions

Thirteen current commercial emollients from different chemical families (hydrocarbon, ester, ether, and silicone) were firstly characterized by eight physicochemical properties which were a-priori thought to be stronglyrelated to sensory perception. Those include usual properties as well as more ori...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Colloids and surfaces. A, Physicochemical and engineering aspects Physicochemical and engineering aspects, 2018, Vol.536, p.156-164
Main Authors: Chao, Christina, Génot, Célina, Rodriguez, Corinne, Magniez, Harmonie, Lacourt, Sandrine, Fievez, Aurélie, Len, Christophe, Pezron, Isabelle, Luart, Denis, van Hecke, Elisabeth
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Chemical and Process Engineering
Engineering Sciences
Environmental Engineering
Environmental Sciences
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Summary:Thirteen current commercial emollients from different chemical families (hydrocarbon, ester, ether, and silicone) were firstly characterized by eight physicochemical properties which were a-priori thought to be stronglyrelated to sensory perception. Those include usual properties as well as more original ones such as volatility,estimated by the evaporated mass fraction during a fixed duration, as well as the polar and dispersive components of the surface tension. Principal Component Analysis and Hierarchical Agglomerative Clustering led to apartition of the emollients into groups that matched fairly well with the different chemical families. It alsohelped to highlight the main characteristics of each group. As expected, silicone had the lowest surface properties. Hydrocarbons showed the highest volatilities and the lowest viscosities. Esters mainly displayed thehighest surface properties, and within this group, diesters showed higher polar components than monoesters.Sensory evaluation was performed at the same time by a professional panel. The sensory attribute “Spontaneousspreading” was found to be larger for silicone and hydrocarbons than for esters and ether. From our set of data, asuitable correlation was obtained between the sensory attribute “Spontaneous spreading” and the calculatedspreading coefficient on Teflon® which combines surface tension with the cosine of contact angle.
ISSN:0927-7757
1873-4359
DOI:10.1016/j.colsurfa.2017.07.025