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Effect of cosmetic matrices on the release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L

Objective In this study, the effect of different cosmetic matrices on the release profile and odour intensity of the fragrance O. majorana was investigated for the first time. Methods The fragrance compounds of O. majorana were extracted by supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE‐CO...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:International journal of cosmetic science 2016-08, Vol.38 (4), p.364-374
Main Authors: Costa, P., Velasco, C. V., Loureiro, J. M., Rodrigues, A. E.
Format: Article
Language:English
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Summary:Objective In this study, the effect of different cosmetic matrices on the release profile and odour intensity of the fragrance O. majorana was investigated for the first time. Methods The fragrance compounds of O. majorana were extracted by supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE‐CO2) at 40°C and two operating pressures (8.5 and 10 MPa), and their chemical profiles were assessed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector coupled with mass spectrometry (GC‐FID/MS). Lastly, the fragrance compounds were incorporated into three cosmetic matrices (glycerine, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion) to assess their release and odour profiles over time using dynamic headspace (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS and Odour Value concept, respectively. Results The SFE‐CO2 enabled recovering extracts with the pleasant scent of the living plant, and the increment of pressure induced an increase on the extraction yield. GC‐FID/MS analyses revealed that oxygen‐containing monoterpenes was the principal group of components identified in both SFE‐CO2 extracts. The fragrance compounds were more retained in dipropylene glycol, and the major deviations from the original odour intensity (control) were observed in the presence of dipropylene glycol and skin lotion. Conclusion The hydrophilic character of the cosmetic matrices strongly influenced the release of the fragrance compounds, thus affecting the odour profile of the studied mixtures. Résumé Objectif Dans cette étude, l'effet de différentes matrices cosmétiques sur le profil de libération et de l'intensité de l'odeur du parfum O. majorana a été étudié pour la première fois. Methodes Les composés parfumés de O. majorana ont été extraits par extraction de fluide supercritique utilisant le dioxyde de carbone (SFE‐CO2) à 40°C et à deux pressions de fonctionnement (8.5 et 10 MPa), et leurs profils chimiques ont été évalués par chromatographie en phase gazeuse avec détecteur à ionisation de flamme couplée à la spectrométrie de masse (GC‐FID/MS). Enfin, les composés de parfum ont été incorporés dans trois matrices cosmétiques (glycérine, le dipropylèneglycol et lotion pour la peau) afin d’évaluer leurs profils de libération et d'odeur dans le temps en utilisant le headspace dynamique (DHS)/GC‐FID/MS et Odour Value concept, respectivement. Résultats Le SFE‐CO2 a permis la récupération d'extraits avec l'agréable parfum de la plante vivante, et l'augmentation de la pression induit une augmentation du rendement d'extraction. L'an
ISSN:0142-5463
1468-2494
DOI:10.1111/ics.12297