Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

Background Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation. Objective To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architec...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:International journal of cosmetic science 2022-12, Vol.44 (6), p.625-635
Main Authors: Mellody, Kieran T., Bradley, Eleanor J., Mambwe, Bezaleel, Cotterell, Lindsay F., Kiss, Orsolya, Halai, Poonam, Loftus, Zeena, Bell, Mike, Griffiths, Tamara W., Griffiths, Christopher E. M., Watson, Rachel E. B.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Aged
Aged, 80 and over
Biomarkers
Biopsy
Collagen
Elastin
Epidermis
Face
Fibrillin
Fibrils
Fibronectin
Filaggrin
formulation
Humans
In vivo methods and tests
Irritation
Muscles
Occlusion
Original
Patch tests
photodamage
Skin
Skin Aging
skin barrier
skin physiology/structure
Stratum corneum
Topical application
Vitamin A
Vitamin A - pharmacology
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Summary:Background Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation. Objective To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in‐use escalation study. Methods For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66–84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six‐week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly. Results Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e‐cadherin expression. Fibrillin‐rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p 
ISSN:0142-5463
1468-2494
DOI:10.1111/ics.12799